What Really Pisses You Off, Bangkok?

From crappy sidewalks and unhelpful taxis to a lack of individuality, we asked you what bugs you most about their city.

Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul

30, senior coordinator
“Taxis that refuse to take passengers. I normally drive but sometimes have to take a taxi. During peak hours, there’s no way that they’re going to take us. My friend once got rejected by over 10 taxis in a row.”

Landry TD

30, graphic designer
“Being smashed by buses when bicycling. Buses just cut in front of you and push you onto the sidewalk whenever they pick up passengers. They don’t let you pass so you’d better make sure you get past them before a bus stop!”

Jennifer Phataminviphas

32, marketing manager
“Motorcyles! They’re like flies, flying around everywhere! If I had a bat in my car, I would use it to swipe them off!”

Khemngern Tonsakulrungruang

32, consultant
“To ease traffic please give us a bike-friendly environment. Compared to 10 years ago, Bangkok traffic is now much better, with more alternative forms of transport but it still needs improvement. Bikes are the answer.”

Brian Blanchfield

27, writer
“People with whistles who don’t drive cars telling people driving cars how to park in parking places that aren’t difficult to park in.”

Wiwat Patcharinsak

34, marketing supervisor
“Bad driving manners. People often don’t signal when they’re changing lanes. How can you know when to give way? Drivers should think about others and not just do what they want. Just because everyone does something doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do. One more thing Bangkokians should learn is that if you’re in a hurry, don’t jump in the car! Head for the BTS, a motorcycle taxi or a boat!”

Prangie Songtieng

26, writer
“Footpaths. I can’t walk around the city without having to watch every step I take. Blue skies and twinkling stars? Forget it, I’m never allowed to appreciate them when walking in Bangkok. Please someone do something about it, so we can all enjoy the winter breeze by walking from one BTS station to another. It would help reduce traffic jams as well!”

Songwoot  Wattanapan

33, IT consultant
“Unwalkable sidewalks with so many light poles, phoneboxes, hawkers, fire hydrants, bus stops and food stalls. I need my sidewalks back!”

Gauri Khanna

25, project manager
“When people take up both sides of the escalator. And ‘pole-huggers’ on the BTS: people who find it necessary to press their whole body against the pole, even if your hand is already there. Also, we drive on the left hand side of the road, but when people walk on the stairs or in a corridor, why do they keep to the right?”

Chanya Jarikasem

24, freelance translator
“Riding the BTS and MRT during rush hour, there are so many people. I hate feeling like a sardine and having to touch strangers.”

Joe Sloane

34, chef
“People moaning about the BTS—the BTS at rush hour is still great compared to other major cities around the world. They should try the London underground at rush hour!”
 

Akanee Sua-Ngam

25, international coordinator
“Hi-so wannabes! Trust me, these people weren’t raised well enough, and therefore crave social acceptance. Sometimes they even carry a Shenzhen Birkin, but keep buzzing about Paris. Materialism is big in Bangkok. Certain brands are just worn to show how wealthy someone is, not how the fashion was intended.”

Paweerata Pureekul

23, fashion blogger
“Girls who follow the trends without being themselves. Everywhere I go, I try to find new or unique styles but unfortunately I find none. In my opinion, Thai girls are too obsessed with Korean stars, and let themselves become victims of fashion.”

Haikal Johari

34, Chef at Water Library Thonglor
“On the positive side, there are a lot of new restaurants opening up, but on the negative side, most of the food is quite similar. It’s like eating the same food at a different place. Bangkok needs a more dynamic culinary scene. There needs to be less repetition of food trends.”

Michael Zelum

54, IT and digital officer
“Crappy service in bars and restaurants. Waiters and waitresses should watch customers more closely to know when they are ready for more drinks and/or service. I hate having to practically yell across the room waving an empty glass or bottle.”

Cookie Kerdtongtawee

23, student
“Refrigerated red wine and how supposedly cool Bangkokians appreciate it.”

Kongdej Jaturanrasamee

40, filmmaker
“The biggest challenge for indie filmmakers at present is finding avenues of distribution. We have to accept that cinemas are businesses, so it’s only natural that they’ll choose to screen films that will guarantee bigger audiences. But that has a flow-on effect in that people aren’t aware of all the independent films out there.”

Vanviva Bhumibhanit

35, civil servant
“I saw a big family dining at a restaurant. The girl asked her grandpa to take her picture with an iPad. Despite several tries, he couldn’t manage it. Upset, the girl said “silly grandpa” and snatched her iPad back. Her mom also said she couldn’t believe he didn’t know how to use it. They all mocked him. This is worrying: rampant materialism is causing cultural demoralization.”

Matt Smith

30, musician
“Cover bands and the bar owners who continually tell them to only play covers. They’re good musicians! Why don’t they write their own songs? Why not let them? It’s all about starting from the grass roots!”

DJ Azek

31, DJ/ party organizer
“The lack of appreciation for good music in Bangkok. If it’s not ultra-commercial top 40 hits, then most people don’t dance. Such a lack of curiosity. Oh, and the very hot lady DJs popping up everywhere. Why do you have to be half-naked to get a gig? Hold on, I actually like that one.” 

Sirasa Kanchamas

33, DJ/ party organizer
“As a DJ I hate it when I’m playing rock ‘n’ roll tunes like Oasis and the Rolling Stones, and someone who randomly came to the party asks me to play Katy Perry. As a party lover, what bugs me most is that drinks are too expensive to get drunk!”

Foie gras, made from the specially fattened liver of a duck or goose, has been rapidly growing in popularity over the past decade. You can now find it on the menus at the majority of Bangkok’s high-end restaurants, but controversy has long surrounded the French delicacy. This came to a head when the state of California, USA, banned the sale and production of foie gras on the grounds of animal welfare, effective July 1, sparking a backlash from chefs and lovers of the dish alike. A ban on shark fin soup would have been unthinkable in Bangkok five years ago. Today, at least three luxury hotel chains have voluntarily done just that. Could foie gras be next?

So far, Thailand would appear blissfully unaware of any growing global sentiment against the dish. In 2009, US$7,728,000 worth of foie gras was consumed in Thailand (according to PETA), and that demand has only increased since. Though traditionally eaten only on special occasions, Bangkokians can’t seem to get enough of the delicacy, with some swanky brunches and tasting menus even dedicated to the dish.

Foie gras translates simply to “fat liver” in French, and is known for having a buttery, silky quality that melts in your mouth when seared, though there are many different forms of the dish. Eloi De Fontenay, Chef at Paris Bangkok Restaurant, says, “From our experience, Asian people are falling in love with foie gras, especially Thai people. It’s a delight for chefs to use in the kitchen; it’s so rich in taste, and can be used raw, cooked and in terrine, and be associated with so many products.”
Reto Moser, Director of Food and Beverage at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, says, “Foie gras is popular for its flavor and perhaps also for a sense of prestige associated with it.” Indeed, it can be pricey, ranging from B500 to B1,100 depending on the type, its accompaniments and, of course, the restaurant. But it’s not only the taste of foie gras that is a talking point, the production of it is causing an ever-growing debate.

Foie gras is produced through gavage or force-feeding. And therein lies the controversy. The birds are separated at birth, the female hatchlings discarded as they do not produce high-quality foie gras. The males are left to grow for a few months, free to roam around the French countryside. Then the force-feeding begins and lasts for an average of two weeks. The birds are systematically force-fed corn boiled in fat via a metal tube pushed down into their stomachs, which if done with a lack of care can cause significant damage to their throats. Detractors also point to livers swelling up to ten times their normal size, impaired liver function and all sorts of distress caused to the animal’s body.

With this process illegal throughout much of Europe, France is now relied on for the majority of the world’s supply of the liver, feeding approximately 70% of global demand.

Quince’s chef, Jess Barnes, thinks restaurants can live without the fatty liver. “I think the ban on the consumption of any product in which an animal is treated and raised unethically is good. That said, this ban is considered by some to be symbolic of a class war. Either way, I think morals are the privilege of the upper classes and the entire animal should be consumed if it is to die for our survival.” Barnes also feels that more education about the production process is key to stopping its consumption. “In my eyes the people who have access to the product here are not educated about how it is produced and see it as just another dish like shark fin soup.”

Bangkok’s hotel chains and restaurants aren’t showing any signs of bowing to pressure, so for now foie gras remains resolutely on the menu. As Moser, of Four Seasons, explains, “Our guests are the most important factor in our decisions, guiding the selections we offer.” And Mr Clavel agrees, “It’s something which is famous and well-known throughout the world. To not have foie gras in a French restaurant would be a shame. It’s like a rule for a French restaurant to have foie gras.”

Sing with the Filipinos

Filipino karaoke skills need no introduction. Is it in their blood? Are they given a microphone before they’re given a baby bottle? Go ask them at Kumpleto Restaurant and Karaoke (Soi Pridi Banomyong 40, Sukhumvit 71, open Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 6pm-2am, 088-495-7700, www.kumpletorestaurant.com), where Filipino teachers and office workers gather for a few drinks, some darts and some serious vocalizing. Saowanee “Pien” Kaennonghu, the Thai owner and chef, says she learned to make Filipino dishes from her Filipino mother-in-law. She recommends tuyo (salty fried fish imported from the Philippines, B70), dinuguan (meat salad, B100) and binagoan baboy (fried pork with shrimp paste, B80). The restaurant also has many products from the Philippines, from baked crispy nuts to milk. But we say head straight to the karaoke room, open daily but especially late on Fri-Sat.

Eat with the Filipinos

If you’d like to tuck in without having to belt out a tune, just head to Mabuhay (1/31 Phetchaburi Soi 19, 02-255-2689, open daily 11am-11pm) to try the adobong manok (more commonly known as chicken adobo, B150). We just reviewed it (three stars!), so head to http://bit.ly/MVV09V for the full details.

Help out the Burmese

The Sammajivasil School (744 Soi Phayanak, Ratchathewi, www.tacdb-burmese.org) is a Thai elementary school on weekdays. But Myint Wai, a Burmese activist from the Thai Action Committee for Democracy in Burma, takes over at weekends with DEAR Burma (Development of Education and Awareness for Refugees from Burma), a Sunday school to teach Thai, English and computer skills to migrants at bargain rates. The computer program starts from only B400 for two months while both Thai and English are just B350 for three month courses. They’re always in need of volunteer teachers as the number of Burmese migrants applying is growing, with over 500 workers gathering here every weekend.

Tune in to Some
Laotian Sounds

Thai culture is steamrolling Laos, whether it’s our soap operas or pop. But Laotian pop hasn’t kicked the bucket just yet. Head to Bangbon district on Ekkachai Rd., near Rama 2 Rd., and you’ll find this massive market with the occasional DVD or CD stall selling luk-tung, mo-lam as well as pop songs, rock and boy bands from Laos. If you’d rather hear it live, head to Suksawasdee Market at the weekend. Concerts are held there at least twice a month with the promoter (Banjob “Kae”, 081-553-8074) sometimes importing Laotian artists to play local variants alongside Thai singers. Tickets are B100.

Tuck in to Some
Laotian Flavors

If you prefer to just have a genuine Isaan-Lao meal, head to Sirichai Market on Sunday to shop for Lao-isaan food at Talad Lao inside the main market. Here you will find Lao-Isaan vegetables and ingredients that you can’t find at any supermarket in town. The products range from unpasteurized plara (fermented fish sauce) to kai mod daeng (red ants eggs), but there’s also exotic grub like dried buffalo skin, tadpoles and ground crickets. Saeb!

Show Off Some
Burmese Style

Wondering where to pick up some of Burma’s famous beauty products, like thanaka? Head straight to Phra Khanong Market. At the entrance, turn left down a small alleyway seemingly packed with coloful clothing, and eventually you’ll find yourself in Little Burma. T-shirts, raw betel nuts and all manner of spices are just some of the Burmese goods on display. Not too far away is a well-known Burmese eatery, where you’ll be greeted by the smiling face of Dao Giri, the Nepalese-Burmese cook. Her most popular dish among Burmese expats and Thais alike is mohinga (Burmese kanomjean, B30). It’s cheap, tasty and served up in a matter of minutes.

Grab a Burmese Bite

On the topic of Burmese cuisine, some of the most authentic can be found on Soi Ramkhamhaeng 24, Yak 34. Here, there’s a handful of small eateries which cater to the many Burmese students and exchange teachers attending the nearby ABAC. One of the most popular is the family-run Shwe Myanmar which has served homegrown recipes here through a khao gaeng-like set-up for around two years now.

Say Hello to Halal Eateries

Bangkok has a variety of halal eateries, some of which see very little in the way of Thai customers. Malaysian restaurant Cili Padi (107/3, Thanon Pan, Silom Rd., Bangrak, open daily 11am-10pm, closed every first Friday of the month, 02-635-1167) brought its sizable expat clientele with it when it moved to its present location three months ago. Run by Fahmi Sabri, a Malaysian national, it serves famous dishes like nasi lemak (Malaysian national dish, B60) and kari ayam (chicken curry, B70) mostly eaten with roti (B20), while Thais particularly like the nasi goreng ayam and nasi goreng Pattaya (a local adaptation). Little slices of ASEAN can even be found in our shopping malls, like Jimbaran Bali (5th Floor, MBK Shopping Centre, open daily 10am-9pm, 081-443-6335), an Indonesian stall serving popular sets such as nasi campur (Indonesian mixed rice with soup, B190) and nasi goreng udang (Indonesian shrimp mixed fried rice with soup, B160). For dessert there’s Cibugatanjong Restaurant (465/2 Petchburi Rd., Rachatevee, beside Soi 7, open daily 10am-12pm, 02-612-1581), which has been a fave among Muslims for close to 12 years. Try the roti mataba with banana (B40), best served with fragrant hot tea (B30). They also serve a solid range of mains like their recommended goat curry (B130).

Explore Old
Vietnam Town

Bangkok started welcoming regional migration well before ASEAN even existed. For a little tour of our oldest migrant neighborhoods, start at Ban Yuan, a Vietnamese community at Soi Samsen 13 dubbed Little Saigon. The Vietnamese presence here can be traced back to the reign of King Rama III, when refugees poured in to escape wars between Cambodia and Vietnam. As they were Christians, the king placed them near the Catholic Cambodians and Portuguese who were already in town. A hundred years later, their descendants still cook up some amazing Vietnamese food. Start with Pa Kay (123/205 Dusit Avenue, Ratchawithi Rd., 02-243-4788, open daily 9am-7pm), open for more than 50 years. Try cháo canh aka guayjab yuan (Vietnamese noodle, B45), bun bi (rice noodle with grilled pork, B70) and nam nueng (Vietnamese sausage wrapped with veggies, B70), which comes with unlimited supplies of veggies and wrappers. Don’t skip dessert: the bua loy puek (taro in coconut milk, B20) is stunning. Another option is Orawan Nam Nueng Inter, on the corner of Soi 13 who has the same menu as Pa Kay. Opposite of Orawan, Nu Lek sells delicious moo yor (Vietnamese sausage, B40) and ben jue, which is the traditional Vietnamese steamed rice, for B80. But there’s more to culture than food and many in the community remain devout Christians. Head to St. Francis Xavier Church, in the same soi, where a mix of Vietnamese expats and old migrant families congregate every Sunday.

Meet the Mon

The Mon community, originally from Myanmar, is another long-established group in Bangkok. Located in Bangkradee, near Rama 2 Rd., some of the Mon here still speak their forefathers’ language and dress in traditional garb. Start at the Mon Cultural Center (Wat Bangkradee community, open daily 8am-5pm), which hosts displays of Mon antiques and crafts that detail their traditional life. They can also prepare a cultural trip for as cheap as B200 per head (contact Thawil “Pa Phu,” 081-383-7266). Another Mon community can be found at Prapradaeng, a district widely known for its celebration of Songkran festival in the Mon tradition. Stop at Wat Songtham, which was commissioned by King Rama II as a gift to the Mon people for their support against Burma. The brick ordination hall with its 56 round columns and 200-year-old Buddha are particularly striking, but the two pagodas built in the Mon architectural style are also worth a look.

The latest film remake of erotic novel Jan Dara just sparked bidding wars among international distributors. But a single flash of nipple last Songkran caused outrage. Is Thailand hypocrital when it comes to showing flesh? Here, we speak to those in the business of making erotic images to find out how they reconcile their jobs and desires with their families and society’s judgement.

Monthon Phanpinij

photographer for Penthouse magazine

Neither my family nor my girlfriend mind what I do—they know I’m not a little boy. A job is a job. All my guy friends love it, they want to come and see me shoot.

I have to determine which part and angle of the model looks best: it’s all about the body since there’s no clothing to aid the overall look.

Every guy would love my job, there’s just something about a woman’s curves that’s so appealing. At first I felt awkward, but in a good way. After a short while you get used to the nudity.

As an intern I used to get aroused, probably because I wasn’t the one doing all the work. I was just helping out, which gave me a lot of time to daydream. I had to take a break from looking at the models and try to concentrate on something else.

It’s important to keep your relationships with the models professional; otherwise it’s very hard to survive in this business. There was a time when I used to flirt with them, but I just don’t date people at work.

The difference between art and porn is in the feeling that a picture evokes; the attention paid to the composition tells you whether it’s art or just cheap pornography.

The job helps me meet people: they all want to come on set and hold the lights so that they can get close to the model. It’s hilarious.

People often assume that male photographers sleep with the models, which is totally naïve. We concentrate on making works of art, not cheap smut.

Surachai Saengsuwan

Editor and photographer of Degree magazine

There isn’t really a line separating art and nudity from pornography because it’s subjective, and the photographer is dead once the magazine is in the audience’s hands. As a human being, we can’t deny that sex is one of the most natural influences in the world.

When I shoot nude models, I think about love, because I personally worship love. It doesn’t mean I have to fall in love with the models, but when I see the models I must respect and adore them as if they were my lover—and show what I expect to see when we are in love or making love. It’s not just about sex, it’s just the opposite to trying to destroy them [the models], rape them or take advantage of them.

My loved ones know that I have a clear goal and reasons why I do this, so they’re fine with it. They’re mostly worried that others who don’t understand might try to hurt me. I started Degree magazine because I wanted to do something for the gay community here. Everyone knows gays are very creative and artistic, but there isn’t any media that supports this.

Sex is something that’s always booming because it’s natural; we have to accept it and understand it. Thai society isn’t hypocritical, we’re just able to live with sex as another part of us. What’s important is not to be obsessed with sex.

I’ve never felt pressure to take less revealing pictures. No matter how we try to control issues regarding sex, one day those kids we try so hard to shelter will find out anyway. What we should actually do is build an understanding and help to shape them. Take Japan for example, they’re quite open about sex because it’s like a natural outlet. The more you try to hide sex, the more people feel repressed, but neither can you tolerate everything or society would spiral out of order.

Surawong Kruaefan

Editor-in-Chief of Maxim magazine

All my guy friends think my job’s great because I get to hang out with lots of hot girls. As for my girl friends, they’re always asking questions about whether a model’s breasts are real or the latest techniques for a good physique.

Our editorial team is a lot of fun. We often mess with the models by getting them to help us out with things that aren’t remotely related to their shoot.

We might get to see more models than other people, but depicting sexiness isn’t easy, and sometimes working with models isn’t fun.

If you’re not planning on a serious relationship, dating a model in this line of work is just risky. I’ve never dated one, but I do talk to them about a lot of random things, like what guys want and my insights about women.

Many pictures carry raunchy undertones. But your mind tells you whether something is beautiful or pornography. I draw the line at not showing nipples and avoiding really erotic poses.

It might be Thai men’s dream to see such things, but it crosses a boundary. Maxim focuses on pictures that are beautiful and arousing, rather than all-revealing.

Harris Nopratkhet

photographer for Zoo Weekly magazine

My family and girlfriend are very happy for me, they know it’s my dream job. Others are impressed that I work for such a well-known magazine, especially my male friends.

When you are doing a photo shoot, there’s so much to think about, like the lighting, the pose, and the composition—you don’t really think about the models being naked. It’s a job, and I need to think of how to get the best results. That’s all.

Most people probably think that the photographers for men’s magazines are all having sex with models. They imagine that it’s just like Japanese AV. Wake up guys, this is the real world! It’s nothing even close to that. We all have our jobs to do, and I would not risk my reputation for anything like that.

The goals and reasons for making art and pornography are different. Both show a naked body of a woman which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful thing in the world. True art showcases this beauty. Pornography is only aimed at arousal, and not appreciation.

This one time the model was a newbie who had to drink a lot of beer to get up her courage. She ended up throwing up everywhere and passing out. It was a complete mess.

It’s difficult to keep coming up with fresh ideas and maintain the same high standards every day. You need to have a real passion for the female body.

Wipada Khatisombut

stylist for Play, I’m, W and Girlie magazines

I was working as a coordinator for a sexy magazine, when my boss thought that because I dealt with nude models, I should also learn how to style them.
I was shocked at first; I didn’t even know what a g-string was! But since it’s part of the job you just get used to it by asking lots of questions.

My boyfriend was really excited, just like any man. He wanted to come on set and experience what it was like behind-the-scenes. But after a while he realized that being a nude model is just another job, everything is very professional, and it’s just like a normal fashion shoot. But most of my male friends still offer to help out for free!

It’s my job to decide whether a model’s face is suitable for natural or studio light since not all of them have beautiful skin. I also choose the location of the shoot.
Clothing and accessories are vital for nude models since they help cover up parts of the body and enhance the overall look of the model.

I often have to think where a model should place her hands so that her breasts look bigger.

The three main things any nude model usually does are make her eyes fierce, open her lips slightly, and tilt her body to show off her breasts and ass.

It can be frustrating working with models with big egos: they don’t listen and blame you when the pictures turn out bad.

There’s not much difference between a normal stylist and a nude stylist. If anything a nude stylist has a greater challenge, dealing with all the flaws as there are no clothes to hide them.

One time one of our models decided to quit mid-shoot. She was having problems with her boyfriend. They had just got back together so she decided to pull out. Everything was ready to go and to cancel would have been very costly. In the end, we just gave her time to go out, eat and rethink ­— luckily she came back and we pulled through.

90% of the people I meet look down on my job and mockingly ask why a nude person would even need a stylist. But this line of work requires brains and ideas. We’re not all party animals or pill poppers like most people think.

Thailand’s Taste in Porn & Erotica

We all know that Thai football has never been healthier, right? Last season, over 1.3 million people went to watch a live Thai Premier League (TPL) game, with crowds averaging around 4,500 people a match. Every game was screened live by Truesport and NBT thanks to an investment of B135 million while sponsors have continued to flood into the game. SCG, one of the latest to get on the bandwagon, paid out a massive B600 million to attain a 30% stake in Muangthong United this season.

So what’s the reality, is the money coming into the game being spent wisely? Are there plans in place to develop the level of Thai football at both league and international levels? It seems that beneath the smooth surface, there are enough serious issues to get local fans worried.“It’s true that the TPL is very popular these days. It’s not real, though,” explains Komkrit Napalai, a long-time fan and media officer at TPL team Osotsospa M150 Saraburi FC. “People get excited because of the whole media hype around it. But if the existing problems continue, the popularity will eventually fade.”

Playing politics?

Those problems include the current precarious financial situation surrounding the clubs—an issue that has been brought into sharp focus recently by a very public clash between Buriram’s owner and former politician Newin Chidchob and the head of the Thai FA, the equally controversial Worawi Makudi. The main sticking point is over TV rights, a potentially lucrative source of income for the clubs, with Newin questioning the President of the Thai Premier League Dr Vichit Yamboonreung about where this money has gone.

The issue has even led Newin to form the Thai Premier League Club Allies, an interest group of 18 TPL clubs who have joined together to put pressure on the Thai FA for clearer change and transparency in all areas of the game. Komkrit is one person who thinks the idea of the Allies is good: “They’ll brainstorm what they want, what needs to be fixed. They’ll have the negotiation power to gain benefits for all of the TPL.”

Of course, there are those who doubt Newin’s true motives, with many believing that this might even by the first move by the wily politician in a run for the head job at the Thai FA. Whatever, the real reasons, the formation of the Allies did highlight one major issue that’s facing Thai football, money, where’s it coming from and where it goes.

Money, Money, Money

Running a club is now a very expensive business, leading Thai players can earn up to B300,000 a month with foreign imports costing even more. In fact, Team Manager and International Director of current TPL champions Buriram FC, Tadthep Pitakpoolsin estimates it can cost around B50 million a year to run a successful TPL squad.

In successful leagues around the world, the lion’s share of the money comes from broadcasting rights. In Thailand, these rights are controlled by the Thai FA except it’s actually a little murkier than that. As Newin uncovered in a recent public meeting with TPL boss Dr Vichit, the responsibility of managing these rights and other financial matters had been handed over to Siamsport Syndicate. The media giant played a big role in making the TPL so popular, but their boss is chairman of Muangthong United, and they also have a fairly cozy relationship with FA Chairman Worawi. The fall out caused by Newin’s question last month forced Siamsport to step down from their role as the FA’s financial advisors, though the real question as to where the money has gone has not been completely answered. However, for

once, it’s not just a question of potential corruption but a basic matter of economics.
“In Thailand, each club only gets around B10 million from broadcasting rights and ticket sales. That means they have to find around B40-50 million from sponsorship,” explains Tadthep.

“Attaining 60-80% of revenue from sponsorship depends on finding powerful investors, and on permutations like whether you win the league or a cup. In just one year, everything can change. That’s not a sustainable model, it’s impossible to make a long-term plan for development,” he continues.

Thanya Wongnak, Manager of BEC Tero Sasana, agrees that the financial issue is a long-term threat to the game. “The budgets to compete and succeed in the TPL are high and keep getting higher. I worry that we are investing too much money to improve the clubs; we are stretching ourselves too thin.”

It’s clear that these problems might already be surfacing. In a bid to appeal to those all-important backers and attract much-needed finances, many clubs have been forced to relocate and change names, with both Esan United (formerly Sisaket FC) and Osotsopa (who recently moved to Saraburi) just the latest examples. Meanwhile, rumors have circulated that some TPL clubs, and especially one Bangkok-based team, have already been unable to pay players due to a lack of cash.

Always Walk Alone

Tadthep feels this is where the FA and the TPL authorities should be doing more. “They need to help us find more income and help control spending. They need to help clubs manage their finances to ensure that we don’t get into a cycle of boom and bust for clubs.”

Yet, TPL President Dr Vichit believes there is not much wrong with the current model. “I am a supporter of a full capitalist economy, so I don’t like too much interference. I think all we need to do is offer good guidelines, not try to control what people are doing.”

Osotsopa’s Komkrit is not surprised at this attitude from the governing bodies and feels it underlines a general malaise in the game at the highest level. “Each club has to learn and struggle for themselves. The FA and the TPL don’t do a single thing to help them.”

Going Global

Aside from the financial issues, this malaise is perhaps most keenly felt when considering the fortunes of the national team. Back in 1998, Thailand’s War Elephants, held a heady FIFA world ranking of 43; today they languish down at 141, sandwiched between Belize, with a population of just 300,000 and the tiny Eastern European state of Moldova (pop. 3.5 million).

“There’s a huge gap between the league and the national team,” says Tadthep, who questions why Thai players who compete at the highest level in Asian Cup competitions, like the Asian Champions League, then struggle when playing for the national squad. “Clearly something is wrong at the national camp.”

Perhaps surprisingly, considering his close ties with the FA, even Dr Vichit thinks it’s pretty clear where the issues with the national team lay: “If the FA had done a good job, then we wouldn’t have the problems we have at the moment. I don’t think they’ve done enough.”

Of course the Thai FA beg to differ and point out that the rise of the TPL has actually had a detrimental effect on the national team’s performance. “Now playing for your club is so important, the players they earn a lot of money. Maybe they see it as more important than playing for the national team,” argues the Thai FA’s General Secretary Ong-arj Kosinkar.

He also points out that the extra pressures created by a professional league mean the national team has much less time to prepare for important games and competitions. Where they used to have one, even two months, to prepare the team, the league schedule means clubs might only release their Thai players one week before a game. “It makes it more difficult, but it’s understandable. Clubs have a lot at stake, they want to win so it’s difficult to get their support on issues like this.”

This weekend sees the start of the European Championships in Ukraine and Poland. Spain, the current champions and World Cup holders, are the clear favorites. They’ve dominated international football for the past four years, with a team that has grown up together at both club and country levels. Their closest rivals will probably be Germany, another country that has focused on youth development and now boasts a squad of young but seasoned talents.

One man who knows more about promising youngsters than most is Hans Emser, who is the director of the highly respected Youth Academy at TPL team Bangkok Glass. For him the problem is clear: “The big handicap is there is no youth league in Thailand, it’s really difficult to develop without this in place.”

Emser has been a youth coach at German Bundesliga heavyweights Bayern Leverkeusen and at Dutch giants Ajax. He’s adamant that the old excuses about the smaller stature and lack of strength of Thai players are simply irrelevant. He runs the same physical tests on his youth team as those carried out by his former colleagues in Germany. “The results are the same, there is no difference between the players. But there is no competition here and that is the difference.”

“The simple fact is you need competition, matches over 7-8 months. Without this it’s very difficult to move from the youth team to the main team. The absence is a big, big handicap.”

There might be some light on the horizon, with Dr Vichit revealing that the TPL are currently investigating the possibility of setting up a reserve league next season similar to that found in English football. This new league would at least offer a competitive arena for young players to develop. All the managers and coaches we spoke to agreed that this would be a major step forward.

“You can’t create good players at 26. Players have to be developed from a young age,” says Buriram’s Tadthep.

The Next Play

But as everyone we spoke to also points out, the clubs and even the league can’t do this alone, such major grassroots changes need to come from the FA. “They need to become more professional” says Thanya, “They need to implement a better structure for the whole game, not just at the top levels.” The Thai FA would clearly argue that they’re doing their best, and Ong-arj does point to successes in international tournaments at the U12, U14 and U16 levels as signs that their network of youth coaches and scouts is starting to work. He also explains that, just like the clubs, the FA is still very young. “Maybe in the next few years we’ll be better, more professional. In Europe, in England, they’ve been professionals for around one hundred years. In Thailand, we were established 3-4 years ago, so we haven’t had enough time to develop properly.”

But Komkrit isn’t holding his breath, “The people who really want to improve Thai football don’t have the power or the authority to do so. Those working in the FA and the TPL don’t really know and understand football.“

Tadthep is less pessimistic, but agrees that it needs a lot of work and investment not just from the Thai FA but also the government. “The FA have a lot of good knowledge and human resources, they know how to develop football but they need financial support, perhaps from the government.”

That might actually be coming, with Yingluck Shinawatra recently announcing that the government is planning to invest B1 billion in grassroots sport, albeit with a large amount of support being generated from the private sector. If their latest populist policy comes into practice, then it may help national teams of the future have a realistic chance of becoming a force again at the international level.

As Tadthep points out, “If North Korea can qualify for a World Cup, why can’t we? We have the pitches and the players, we just need to use all these resources better.”

The other thing that is clearly needed is time. To succeed in 2020, coaches need to start work today with Thailand’s 12, 13 and 14-year-old players. There also needs to be a competitive structure in place for them to learn the mental strength and discipline to succeed. “Thailand can be competitive again if the league is strong. But we need more time,” says an optimistic Thanya.

Unfortunately, perhaps the biggest question mark of all is whether there will still be a strong league in the foreseeable future. As Komkrit argues, survival won’t be down to the authorities or the clubs, but the fans. “But if the authorities don’t help Thai football progress to a better level, people will lose faith. And that would be the end of Thai football.”

Then overtaking Belize in the world rankings would be the least of our problems.

Four young players all tipped to be Thailand’s next big thing

Name: Chanathip Songkrasin

Age: 16
Position: Midfield
Skill: Small, quick and with great technical skill and style, he’s been touted as Thailand’s answer to Lionel Messi and already made his debut for the national team this year.
Club: BEC Tero Sasana

Name: Sakda Fai-in

Age: 19
Position: Defence
Skill: Despite his young age, he’s made a name for himself thanks to his strength and stamina at the back for Osotsopa this season.
Club: Osotspa M-150 Saraburi

Name: Anawin Jujeen

Age: 25
Position: Midfield/Forward
Skill: With great technique and fast feet, Anawin has been playing the game at the highest level for the past five seasons and has made four appearances for the national team.
Club: Bangkok Glass

Name: Saratch Yooyen

Age: 20
Position: Midfield
Skill: The young midfielder first got notice at Phuket FC before being snapped up by Muangthong. Known for his speed, trickery on the ball, powerful shot and his dead ball ability, he’s a particular threat when breaking from deep.
Club: Muangthong United

Bangkok’s Thai Premier League stadiums undergo a transformation

Praya Palazzo

When Chulalongkorn University announced plans to raze the Lido, and possibly Scala, there was a public outcry. Partly, the indignation stemmed from the prospect of an educational institution bulldozing two independent movie theaters. But in Scala’s case, it was also a question of architectural preservation. Built in 1967, Scala is grandiose and luxurious, with overwrought rococo elements blending with graceful white columns and a sweeping staircase that dominates the cathedral-like vaulted lobby. We owe the theater to Chira Silpakanok, one of Thailand’s foremost modern architects and the designer of the Indra Hotel, another very elegant building were it not covered in ads and electrical wires. Until it was threatened with destruction, Scala was neither listed nor formally recognized by the Association of Siamese Architects (ASA). (In the wake of this incident, the cinema just won an ASA Architectural Conservation Award 2012.) While Scala seems safe for now, this worrisome episode raised serious questions about Bangkok’s policy for urban heritage preservation.

Scala Cinema

THE SHORT ARM OF THE LAW

The Fine Arts Dept. is responsible for architectural conservation, under the snappily-titled Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains and National Museum Act of Parliament, which was first passed in 1961 and revised in 1992. The law says anyone who destroys unregistered monuments is punishable with fines of up to B700,000 or seven years jail time while the punishment can be up to B1 million fines and 10 years jail time if they destroy registered monuments. It sounds like a suitable deterrent, however in practice, the Fine Arts Dept. rarely pursues those guilty of knocking down historic buildings.

As a case in point, the house of ML Devathiraj P. Malakul, next to BTS Ratchathewi was razed by the owners to make way for a development project. The house was an intricately carved 90-year-old structure—and from the BTS platform everyone had front row seats when the bulldozers moved in. The building had not been registered but any building of architectural, historical, educational and social value is, in theory, protected under the current law. Why didn’t the Fine Arts Dept. sue the Malakul family? We asked Vasu Poshyanandana, architect at the Office of Architecture at the Fine Arts Dept. “The fact is, this house was already gone, so the Fine Arts legal team might have figured it was better to put our limited resources and budget towards other urgent cases.”

The Fine Arts Dept. already had a bitter taste in their mouths from a legal battle with the head monk of Wat Kalayanamitr. Three years ago, he ordered the demolition of a registered pagoda. The department did sue in this case, but the court rejected their claims as the site’s 50-year-old registration under the Archeological Act did not detail which parts of the temple were listed.

“I’m worried that this case sets the wrong example for future conservation disputes,” Vasu says. When pressed further, Vasu does point out that you can always sue the Fine Arts dept. if you feel they are not doing their job, an odd invitation that betrays a hint of desperation.

Praya Palazzo before renovation

A Private Problem

Today, the Fine Arts Dept. has listed some 8,700 monuments all over the country. Specifically, Bangkok has 191 registered and 342 unregistered monuments that range from temples, government offices, fortresses, bridges and private buildings. (Unregistered buildings are the ones the Fine Arts have not yet completed a full survey and historical research for.) Of these hundreds of buildings, the hardest ones to protect are those that are privately owned.

A few years ago, Vasu explains the Archaeological Act was further weakened in a new draft that is currently on hold. Under this proposed revision, owners of private buildings could now choose to accept Fine Arts listings or not.

Most owners would refuse to be listed. For one, there’s some misunderstanding surrounding the effects of being registered. As most listed buildings are public, owners fear losing ownership of their home if it is listed—a total misconception.
They’re also worried about being harassed by the Fine Arts Dept. “The property still belongs to them but they need to report to the Fine Arts before they do something to the house,” Vasu explains, who sees this as a benefit. “We’re their advisor in conservation.”

Pongkwan Lassus, president of the ASA’s Art and Architectural Preservation Commission, says Thailand adopted its conservation model from France, but left out the part where there are government grants benefitting those who register their house.

“In France, the government gives owners grants and tax exemptions [on preservation work and inheritance tax] to owners of listed buildings, but Thailand has no benefits to persuade owners to preserve their buildings,” Pongkwan says.
Trungjai Buranasomphob, a senator and chairperson of the Standing Committee on Religions, Morals, Ethics, Arts and Culture, agrees. “The laws only says what you can’t do. It doesn’t help owners with preservation.” Without these laws, Trungjai role is also limited to being a mediator, trying to convince owners of heritage properties to follow the Fine Arts advice on restoration and preservation.

As for those owners who are already intent on preserving a heritage building, the lack of incentive means they are just as likely to ignore the Fine Arts Dept. altogether, as was the case for the owners of a lovely 1920s building on the river (See Going Private: Praya Palazzo, right) which was restored using private funds.

Wat Suanploo

Got A PLAN?

To recap, there is no law enforcement and no financial incentives to better preserve Bangkok’s architecturally significant buildings. There is also a dire lack of urban planning. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration’s Department of City Planning who oversees conservation in Bangkok gets a tiny budget compared to that of the Public Works Department. And it is the latter who grants the rights to build or tear down buildings. If a building, like Scala, is situated on Chulalongkorn University’s private property and deemed by the BMA to be in a commercial zone, then it is basically defenseless.

“We have to list each zone based on the main activity currently prevalent there. So, Rattanakosin Island is Bangkok’s conserved quarter because it’s our old capital and the main tourist attraction. But other areas that are zoned as residential or commercial, they are free to develop,” says Prapapan Channual, Director of the Land Readjustment and Urban Renewal Division of the BMA’s City Planning Department.

“Bangkok is famous as the Venice of the East but our picturesque canal scenes are disappearing,” says Pongkwan, who is also on the committee at ICOMOS Thailand Association, an NGO focused on conservation. “Tourism is big business but we never put money into preserving what makes people come here. The decaying houses in the canals like Klong Bangkoknoi are main attractions but all they get out of tourism is the noise of long tail boats roaring past all day long. All the money goes to tour operators.”

We contacted the BMA’s Public Work Department for an interview but they declined to talk to us.

East Asiatic Building

TOO YOUNG TO LIVE

Scala is also penalized by being too young for conservationists to take interest in it. “This kind of architecture, you can’t find it anywhere else in Thailand. Our modern architecture has mostly been knocked down. People don’t see its value because it’s too new,” says architect Duangrit Bunnag, whose uncle designed Scala, about Bangkok’s 60-70s architecture. One famous such building was the Siam Intercontinental Hotel, which was designed by Joseph Salerno and opened in 1964. It was knocked down to erect Siam Paragon.

The lack of protection for newer buildings is part of a wider problem. The Fine Arts Dept. was first conceived to protect sites like 17th century temples and 19th century palaces, not late 60s movie theaters or even private homes from the early 20th century. Today, our heritage conservation needs a drastic overhaul to reflect our new needs. Ironically, retro has never been this popular, with fake themed mall ands markets like Plearnwan and Asiatique.

“The problem of Thai society is that we live with so much inauthentic stuff, we end up believing that it’s authentic,” says Duangrit. “But the original places have an incredible power to amaze us. Destroying our history is cutting ties between the younger generation and our roots. And you can’t move forward without strong roots.”

Restoring a Heritage Building in Bangkok: Praya Palazzo’s Preeyadhorn Pitakvorrarat

It’s Saturday night and you’re standing there, waiting for a table at a restaurant with the word “wine” in it. Maybe it’s Wine Connection or Wine I Love You—it doesn’t really matter. The place has an industrial chic décor, affordable bottles and it’s positively packed with elegant, young Bangkokians. Is it in a charming dead-end soi? A leafy avenue? A quiet square? No. It’s in a “community mall,” everyone’s new favorite place to hangout.

Since K Village opened in 2010, Bangkok has seen a veritable explosion of such spaces: Festival Walk, Nawamin City Walk, Rain Hill, Seenspace, Grass Thong Lor, Aree Garden, La Villa, Crystal Design Center, The Nine, The Circle, The Walk, The Crystal, Portico, Park Lane—the list is almost endless. They don’t belong to retail giants The Mall (Paragon, Emporium) or Central. They have outdoor circulation areas. They’re meant to be smaller than your regular mall (although Crystal Design Center is quite the behemoth). And they all provide an experience that shuts them off from their often drab surroundings.

The trend shows no sign of slowing down. If anything, developers seem to be aggressively injecting more community malls into every quarter of our sprawling capital. In February, Index Living Mall Co., Ltd. announced that it planned to invest five billion baht in building five more community malls in the next five years. Pure Sammakorn Development Co., Ltd.’s vision isn’t any less expansive. It will open its third Pure Place Community Mall in May on the booming Ratchapreuk Road, while aiming to unveil two more by next year. Siam Future Development Co., Ltd, whose projects include La Villa, J Avenue and Festival Walk, among others, believes there’s room in Bangkok for at least 150 more community malls—that’s right, 150.

COMMUNITY MALL 101

What exactly is a community mall? No one in Bangkok really agrees on a single definition. To some, what makes a mall a community mall is the kind of services it offers to the surrounding residents. National Artist and president of 49 Group, a multi-disciplinary architecture firm, Nithi Sthapitanonda bases his definition on the USA’s strip malls. For him, these malls, which are usually situated in residential areas, especially in the suburbs, contain all the shops and services that people need in their daily lives.
“Community malls in Thailand are not like that. Some places only have restaurants. When people come in wanting to buy medicine, there’s no pharmacy. If they need their clothes to be dry-cleaned, they can’t do that. The concept is all wrong,” says Nithi.

With the hyper-growth of community malls in recent years, most of us would probably distinguish a community mall from a mega mall by looking at the size and design. Yet, Ariya Aruninta of the Department of Landscape Architecture, Chulalongkorn University, who has written extensively on urban land management, doesn’t differentiate big malls from community malls based on these two criteria.
“It depends on the size of the community. If it’s a community in a city, then a shopping mall is a kind of community mall. Sometimes it can be a mega mall because our city has become a mega city,” Ariya says.

COMMUNITY, WHAT COMMUNITY?

Panida Tosnaitada’s Aree Garden, located in Soi Ari Samphan, is composed of 10 small shops, housed in a sleek and airy black metal structure that encircles a lush courtyard garden. And it has plenty of community cred. Most of the restaurants found in Aree Garden do not belong to a chain. Some of the owners are even Panida’s friends. There’s a nail salon on the upper level owned by people from the neighborhood. Tucked in one corner, Mahuna Books Et Cetera carries obscure Thai titles, handmade cards, and serves as an office for Kiao Klao Pimpakarn, the publishing house of the renowned writer and National Artist Naowarat Pongpaiboon.

“My family all live in this neighborhood. I grew up in the Sukhumvit area, but during the weekends and summer holidays, I came to stay at my grandmas. So I’m familiar with this area…When I was young, we used to cycle around. It was very cool and pleasant, with big trees and few cars. There were never any traffic jams in the soi,” Panida says.

But Aree Garden’s ties to the community and neighborhood are fairly exceptional. The Nine, K. Village and La Villa all have their share of chains, like iStudio, Au Bon Pain or Red Mango. And the shoppers inside sometimes drive a long way to get to them—as their vast parking lots demonstrate.

“Bangkokians assemble in loose groups. They don’t form real communities, unlike in the US or Japan, where cities are divided into different neighborhoods, and where each zone is well planned, with a school, a fire station, a post office,” says Ariya.
Architect Patama Roonrakwit of Community Architects for Shelter and Environment (CASE), who works closely with poor communities in Thailand through a participatory design process, sees the relationship between community and commerce in Bangkok as fairly random.

“It starts with a good location, which then attracts people to settle and form a community. As the community grows, it pulls in commerce. And as commerce grows, it pulls in more people to settle. Bangkok just keeps spreading with no rhyme or reason,” says Patama. The no-nonsense architect is of the same opinion as Ariya, that there are very few real communities remaining in Bangkok, except old communities like Bang Lampu and the slum areas. Community malls serve loose groups of shoppers, a certain demographic perhaps, but not genuine communities.

CONSUMER HEAVEN

A recent ABAC poll reveals that 71.6 percent of the people surveyed go to community malls to eat, while 41.3 percent see them as a place to meet and hang out with their friends. More than half of the people surveyed choose to go to community malls because of the proximity to their homes, while 46.9 percent find that community malls offer a full range of services and products. Ariya conducted another survey in 2009 to find out how city dwellers like to spend their free time. Shopping ranked first as Bangkokians’ favorite activity outside their homes.

“Why are community malls being built? It’s not because people need them. They’re being built because developers conduct market research to gauge the possible business to be made in a given area. Do they ask people whether they want it or not? No. They don’t care. They only look at people’s spending power and what the area is like, based on the market research,” Ariya says. “But I also think there are more advantages than disadvantages to community malls.”

Another landscape architect, Arrak Ouiyamaphan, admits there is growing emphasis on atmosphere and open space and that the new generation of community malls pays more attention to the landscape design. More focus on the design of the outdoor space usually translates to more trees. One of the city’s very first community malls, J Avenue is a fitting example of what Arrak is talking about. There, cars are protected from the sun beneath the shade of frangipani. A magnificent ancient tree hovers above the mall’s frontage. And a thick, tall row of greenery makes it difficult to see part of J Avenue’s façade. Aree Garden, too, considered the landscape design before the structure, according to Panida.

FILLING GAPS IN THE CITY

Community malls are also filling a void left by the city’s poor urban planning, and even architecture. Ashley Sutton, who is behind the famed bar Iron Fairies (Soi Thong Lor) opened his next two bars in community malls: Fat Gut’z (in Grass, Thong Lor) and Clouds (in Seenspace Thonglor Soi 13). He also designed Five, which just opened at K Village. Sutton actually prefers the atmosphere and benefits of community malls to shophouses, such as the one where he built Iron Fairies.
“The shophouses are absolutely disgusting architecture,” says Sutton who has had to face crumbling walls, an old and dirty sewer system, an outdated electrical system and disgruntled neighbors with Iron Fairies. “With community malls, you get a more solid shell to work with, whereas with a shophouse, you get a lot of problems,” Sutton confirms.

Owned and run by Seenspace Co., Ltd., an imported furniture distributor, Seenspace 13 caters to a young and hip crowd. The stylish structure is home to independent restaurants and accessories shops rather than well-known brands. But while Sutton’s bar has done well, on the mall’s uppermost level a space still sits empty, waiting to be rented. In the afternoon, the shops are open, but the mall is practically deserted. The space picks up at night, and Seenspace Co. Ltd. tells us that the business is so far a success.

Sutton, too, believes that for a community mall to succeed, it should have restaurants, banks, and a small supermarket to generate traffic during the day. Seenspace may stand apart from some of Thonglor’s community malls, with its refusal to rent out its spaces to chain stores, but like many community malls in Bangkok, it lacks diversity and the services needed in people’s day-to-day lives.

There are also those who disagree with the community mall model. A resident of the Ari neighborhood, Antika Teparak of Salt restaurant finds little appeal in community malls. “In community malls, there are restrictions on closing and opening hours. And we don’t want to share the space with other shops, where each one has its own target customer. I see community mall shoppers as people who don’t know what they want. They go to see what’s available, then they choose. When people go to a standalone restaurant, they have a real intention to go there,” says Antika, who is now opening a second restaurant across from Salt.

But Antika is also quick to admit that La Villa, across the road from her soi, is a success and has brought convenience to Ari’s residents. She even says that without the opening of the community mall, she might have hesitated longer before deciding to invest in a standalone restaurant in this area. She also sees benefits, like good parking and better customer traffic, to running a business in a community mall. In fact, one community mall is offering her an enticing space that allows for relative isolation from the hubbub and the creative freedom with respect to the design. The restaurateur is certainly keeping her options open.

Community malls may not be perfect, they fit into a city that’s growing even further from urbanism ideals—particularly when it comes to walkability. Six-lane avenues like Silom, Phaya Thai, Sathorn, Rama IV, Phetburi or Sukhumvit are at times impossible to cross on foot. Sidewalks are potholed, lack any shade and are overrun with motorcycles. Available retail space is in dilapidated shophouses with cranky landlords. The reality is that community malls are not wrecking perfect little streets since these only exist in our imaginations. On the contrary, community malls are a manifestation of Bangkok’s rapid growth, its lack of community and the absence of urban planning. Long-standing communities naturally develop the shops, restaurants and services needed for them to function. But when the neighborhood is made of mushrooming moo ban (gated communities) and condos, it seems the best you can hope for is a community mall to open next door.

Like it or not, Singapore is now the most expensive city in Southeast Asia to live in, coming in at number 10 in a recent survey conducted by UBS (see below). It was only just a few years ago that we could boast about being more affordable and certainly more “attractive” than our regional rivals: rents were reasonable, eating out didn’t mean breaking the bank and public transport was an altogether more pleasant experience.

The World’s 20 Most Expensive Cities
Source: UBS

1. Oslo
2. Zurich
3. Geneva
4. Copenhagen
5. Stockholm
6. Tokyo
7. Sydney
8. Helsinki
9. Toronto
10. Singapore
11. Vienna
12. Paris
13. Luxembourg
14. New York
15. London
16. Munich
17. Montreal
18. Frankfurt
19. Sao Paulo
20. Dublin

So what happened? Is Singapore still worth our time or is it now just too darn expensive? Ask around and the jury is still out. “It’s a city where only the rich who have lots of money to blow can afford to have fun,” says freelance columnist Tay Yek Keak. “With overall costs continuing to escalate and paychecks at a standstill, it’s increasingly harder for the average folk to get by in this town.” Others, like St. James Power Station’s CEO Dennis Foo, assert that Singapore is still the premier place in the region to “live, work and play.” And that comes down to more than just what money can buy. “New York, London, Paris, Tokyo: they are all great cities,” says Foo. “But to me, Singapore is better as it is more modern, better governed, very secure, and is well connected to the world. We are also more vibrant now than ever.”

We certainly do well when it comes to Quality of Life rankings (see below), beating out all the Asian competition and bumping up against bigger cities blessed with much longer histories. But that undoubtedly comes at a cost, and our escalating numbers are not very encouraging, especially with the recent surge in property prices (both private property and HDB prices have gone up approximately 75-100% over the past two years in both central and suburban areas, says our property spokesperson), which has created a domino effect on wining and dining, shopping and entertainment.

Quality of Life* index ranking of cities across the world in 2011
Source: www.mercer.com

1. Vienna
2. Zurich
3. Auckland
4. Munich
5. Dusseldorf
6. Vancouver
7. Frankfurt
8. Geneva
9. Bern
10. Copenhagen
11. Sydney
12. Amsterdam
13. Wellington
14. Ottawa
15. Toronto
16. Hamburg
17. Berlin
18. Melbourne
19. Luxembourg
20. Stockholm
21. Perth
22. Brussels
23. Montreal
24. Nuremburg
25. Singapore
26. Canberra
27. Dublin
28. Stuttgart
29. Honolulu
30. Adelaide

*The Quality of Life Index is determined by factors such as socio-political environment, economic environment, natural environment, housing, health-care, cultural environment, recreation, schooling, public services, and transportation.

Let the Music Play On

The cultural scene may never have been better, but concert promoters like Michael Roche of Lushington Promotions says it’s simply impossible to keep costs down while bringing big acts in. A one-night rental of the Singapore Indoor Stadium averages $100,000, and apart from outdoor venues like Fort Canning, we simply “do not have enough venues to play with,” he says. “We’d love to push ticket prices down ... but unless we are able to find more accessibly priced venues and artistes are willing to put in grungier venues, it is not likely to happen soon.”

On the flipside: although prices have escalated, the number and quality of acts performing here have also risen over the years—thanks to quality events like the annual Laneway Festival, F1 and Mosaic Music Festival which featured many international acts who bypassed neighboring cities like Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Bangkok and even Hong Kong to perform here. “Singapore has always managed to secure a high standard of international artistes and the number touring this region has certainly increased hugely,” says Midas Promotions’ Steven Woodward. “The concert scene has continued to evolve, in some part due to the support of the government here as they continue to encourage multiple forms of entertainment.”

Free-for-All

But wait a minute—there’s no shortage of free or great-value events. A few cases in point: Free art exhibitions at private galleries and museums on selected days, free outdoor concert performances at the Esplanade (“We want to reach out to as many people as we can and remain accessible to people from all walks of life,,” says Clarence Yap, assistant director of programming) and affordable entries into clubs with major DJs headlining.

And at least clubbing and drink prices have remained relatively static (if not the cheapest) over the years: “Compared to other clubs in Asia, the US or even Europe, Singapore’s club entrance prices are definitely value-for-money, with many clubs in Singapore including one or two drinks with the price of entry,” says Zouk’s director of marketing Timothy Chia. “We have set the local industry standard with this practice which can also be seen in a few other Asian cities, although it is not a global industry norm by any means. We want to give clubbers here more bang for their buck.” Over at St. James Power Station, Dennis Foo points out that “Our alcohol prices have stayed the same for a long, long time. The price of beer at bars and clubs was around $8 back in the ‘90s, and they still cost the same now ... we are certainly cheaper than most parts of the world,” he says.

Food for Thought

Raymond Lim, who runs fine dining establishment Les Amis, admits that when it comes to eating out, prices in Singapore are “on the high side compared to neighbouring cities like Hong Kong. In fact, we are on the high side even by European standards. A top restaurant like L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris charges about $400 for a degustation menu, while over at Les Amis a degustation menu costs $360, so we’re pretty close. Eleven years ago, the same menu in our establishment cost $135, but this is due to the overall rising cost of running a business, which includes inflationary factors like salaries, costs imported ingredients and rental. Everything has been pushed up a few notches in Singapore, especially with the arrival of Michelin-star restaurants with new benchmarks for prices being set, albeit artificially so in some cases.”

Yet hawker food remains cheap, with the government promoting new initiatives to ensure healthier options minus the high prices. Industry insiders like Yuan Oeij, executive chairman of The Privé Group, says that “Singapore is extremely good at affordable cuisine. Our local food is delicious and is among the cheapest in the developed world.  We are experts at turning poor to moderate quality ingredients into great tasting food. Just think about all the local favorites like char kway teow, prawn mee and hor fun that we have.”

More and more mid-priced bistros and cafes are opening, too, offering a greater choice of price-points than ever before. And it’s choice that all of this really boils down to—a truly great city makes it easy for anyone to go out and eat; not stay at home bemoaning the lack of options.

Money, Money, Money

There is then no question that this is an expensive town. To name and shame a few other offenders: Rent is among the highest in the world, wine is far pricier than it ought to be, shopping can be a dangerous habit. But it pays to step back and think about all the good along the bad. Plain and simple: the city works. That’s more than can be said for plenty of places often cited as “amazingly cheap.” Ironically, one of the very best value-for-money things here is the incredible range of such destinations easily accessible via reliable budget airlines. You want clothes as cheap as a Bangkok’s Chatuchak or street food as cheap as Shanghai? Fly there for the weekend—you’ll likely come back not just with a bagful of new outfits and a full stomach, but a renewed appreciation for our green, clean, and increasingly vibrant city.

You envy the mind-boggling number of edgy, alternative arts events in somewhere else like London? Try living there and listening to people complain about tube breakdowns, a stagnant job market and high taxes, and see if you don’t prefer the sunny optimism here. That’s not to say we should stomach any amount of inflation or not hold people, venues and institutions to account for offering poor value-for-money; just that the bigger picture is what matters. 

St. James Power Station’s Foo concurs. “We are a city state after all, good and bad. Depending on what you’re looking for, you can find different entry points to a range of experiences both in and out of the city,” he says. “We are one of the few very cities in the world where the income gap between the general working and middle classes are not that high, and certainly we have one of the best infrastructures in town and one of the nicest cities in the world to live in. Even our taxi drivers can find their little holidays here and there.”

Recent protests by the city’s cabbies have once again put taxis, drivers and their rates at the top of conversations. We love to hate our cabbies: the ones that don’t use a meter, don’t go to the suburbs, stink, grumble or worse. But what about the guys behind the wheel? What are their lives like? Read on to find out.

Sawai Lakwangmol

Sawai, 53, arrived in Bangkok from Roi-Et nearly 30 years ago. He started off working as a waiter and construction worker. But wanting more independence and higher pay, he decided to get into taxi driving.
What is your daily routine?
I start at 6am from my home in Rangsit, Klong 4, drive until 8 or 9pm and then go home. My income is sufficient. The good thing I don’t have to rent a car, because I’m paying for it in installments of B18,000 a month. So if I can earn about B1,400-1,500 each day, I’m good. I keep B600 to pay for the car and B200-B230 for gas. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to make that much every day.
What are some of the daily difficulties you face?
It used to be good in the old days when we didn’t have meters and were hired by the ride. The meter is only better if you can get lots of customers. But these days, the number of taxis has grown a lot. That makes it hard to find customers. Sometimes a group of taxis will bar us from taking customers from some places like department stores or hotels.
How bad is the gas price hike?
Not that bad. The price only went up 50 satang. We also get help from the government with an energy discount card that gets us a saving of about two baht per liter. But, if the price keeps going up, like to B14-16, it will become a problem.
What would improve your working conditions?
Social welfare like employees do. We have nothing to guarantee our health. If we get sick or have an accident, we will not have any income.
What annoys you about passengers?
The craziest ones are mostly those who don’t pay the fare. I just recently lost a B730 ride after a passenger tricked me by saying he would go to see his sister and return, but then he bailed.
What is the best thing about your job?
It’s really the freedom. I can start and stop work whenever I want. My only boss is my wife.
Do you find stuff in the back of your cab?
I’ve found at least six mobile phones and I have sent them all back. One phone owner even gave me B200 as a reward for driving back, but some paid me just for the fare. We have to think that it doesn’t belong to us. If I left something behind, I’d also want it back.

Arun Mattaya

Arun, 47, loved being a motorcycle taxi rider for more than 10 years. But when the economy crashed in 1997, there were no clients left for him to ply his trade. After a break of two years, Arun returned to Bangkok and decided to throw away his helmet and sit behind a steering wheel instead.
Why drive a cab?
Fuel became so expensive. Taxis run on gas and are much cheaper to run. And back then, the number of taxis was much lower than today, so we could make good money.
What are some of the everyday difficulties you face?
It’s hard to find passengers these days. One time, I had just B20 in my pocket. I had to sleep all day until I could go out and get a fare just to buy something to eat.
What is your daily routine?
I start my day at 6am and go to bed at 3am in the morning. I know it’s a long day of driving, but I have to pay rent on the car, which is B900 for the day. Overall I can keep about B300 a day. The business is good for the first half of the month. After the 15th, it really drops because people’s wages are running out.
What about passengers?
The worst is people who leave without paying. There was this one case where they told me to drive from Roi-Et to Rayong. But when I arrived in Nakhon Ratchsima, they told me to pull over on the highway and ran off into a sugarcane field.
And the the gas price hike?
I don’t feel any effect because it’s just a hike of 50 satang. But I don’t know what it will be like if the price gets as high as B14.
Do you ever stop for gas when you’ve got a client?
It depends on the situation. If I can’t make it to the destination, I will say at the start that I have to stop at the gas station to fuel up. It can also happen that you get stuck in traffic too long and start to run out of fuel. When I pull over at the gas station, I always stop the meter so the fare will not run during the time we are in the station. If your driver doesn’t do that, tell them to stop the meter.
What would make your life better?
It would be good if we could limit the number of taxis in town. There are too many. But, I know it’s unlikely they’ll do that. Too many people would be unemployed.
What would you do if you weren’t a cabby?
I don’t want to do anything else. I will drive until I can’t drive.

Sombat Wanghom

Sombat, 43, owned a transport business delivering goods for 7-Eleven, when he decided to ask for a bank loan to buy a taxi. When it was approved, he decided to leave the business to his wife and started driving.
What is your routine?
I don’t really get up early and drive all day like other drivers. I used to drive and take random customers, but now I will go out only when I get called. They will hire me to drive for them for about B500 to B800 each time. My clients are from old contacts that I used to drive from hotels or the airport. I can do this because I don’t have to pay rent. It’s my own car. All I have to do is pay installments of B17,000 a month. I’m nearly finished now. I sometimes take random customers, if I want to, after dropping off call-in clients.
What’s the worst a passenger’s done to you?
I once experienced an attempted-robbery at knifepoint, but I fought back. Luckily, they were just teenagers who wanted money for drugs—not professional thieves—so I could handle them.
What about the price hike?
It’s not a big problem for me now because it’s a really little hike. I’m not worried. And we can’t run away from the truth. The price has to rise no matter what.
What is the best thing about your job?
It’s fun! It’s like I can travel, too. If I didn’t have my taxi, I wouldn’t have been able to travel all over Thailand like I do today.
Do taxis sometimes take the long route to make more money?
The fact is, the driver has to ask the passenger every time which route they want to go. And normally, cabbies always want to send passengers off as fast as possible because they can earn more money from picking up more new passengers.

Yossapat Pholprash

Eight years ago, Chief Petty Officer 1st Class of Thai Navy Yossapat Pholprash, 44, decided to moonlight as a taxi driver to make ends meet. But it actually got him further into debt and, finally, his wife left him. But he insists his life is much better now because of his taxi job.
What is your routine?
I go to work at the navy base from 8.30am to 4pm, and then I will start driving from 5pm until midnight. It’s my own car, I pay installments of about B21,000 a month. I have to let other drivers rent it so I can meet the repayments. Other drivers will use it from 5am till 5pm. I charge B400 to rent it a day.
What’s the worst thing a passenger has ever done?
Well, mostly it’s those who run away without paying.
When it comes to better conditions for drivers, what would you like?
I want good car insurance for taxis. You know, insurance companies are really taking advantage of us. They’re reluctant to sell us first class car insurance if we are taxis. One even asked my friend to pay extra after an accident even though he already has first class insurance. I also want the government to create social welfare for drivers. I don’t have this problem because I am still in the Navy, but those who only drive a taxi, they really need it.
What is the best thing about your job?
It’s a really good income. I can have a car and use it to make money for me, too.
Why won’t some cabs turn on their meters?
They’re cheats! I never do that. You have a meter, so, use it. But if you agree with them on a set price at the start of a charter trip, that’s different. You have to pay what was agreed.

Pongsak Hongthong

When his export clothing business went downhill, Pongsak Hongthong, 61, asked friends what to do next. One of his former employees drove a taxi and suggested he give it a try. Pongsak closed his factory, got a cab and never looked back.
What happened with your business?
I used to have large orders from the Middle East like Saudi Arabia, Dubai and Yemen. But when their economies turned bad, I realized I had to shut it down instead of running up more debt.
What are your working hours?
My shift runs from 2pm to 2am. I rent this car for 24 hours and share it with my buddy, who drives the car after me. I rent it for B600 per day. Business is always good at the beginning of the month, when I can make B400-B500 each day. But the second half of the month, I can only make about B100-B300. It’s because people are saving their money until the next pay day.
Any crazies?
I just met a guy who didn’t give me a destination. He just said “drive” but, at one point, I told him to get out because there is no point in driving around. It’s a waste of my time.
What about the gas price hike?
I normally spend B500 for gas to drive the whole shift, which is about 370-400 kilometers. I use LPG, which is more expensive, but it’s better than NGV: more stations in Bangkok and less long-term maintenance. It has fewer problems than NGV. I think it’s the government’s fault. They urged taxis to use NGV but they don’t support them. Sometimes, taxis have to queue at least half an hour to fill up or there is no NGV at the station at all.
What do cab drivers want?
I want social welfare.
What is the best thing about your job?
I’m really independent. I used to be stressed when I couldn’t send an order on time, and how it was going to cost me a fine from my clients. Now all I have to do is just drive. No pressure!
Why do taxis sometimes refuse to go somewhere?
Those cabbies are greedy. I never turn down passengers no matter how far it is. I understand that passengers want to go home. The only time that I will refuse is when I am actually driving home, so I want passengers going in my direction.

Wanna throw yourself into the true spirit of giving? Here’s a list of organizations across the spectrum of local charities that could use your help this season—so get involved and spread the goodwill with these good causes.

Food from the Heart (FFTH)

Who they help: Welfare homes and families burdened by financial problems.

How they help: FFTH is best known for collecting unsold bread from bakeries and hotels to be distributed to welfare organizations, families and individuals since 2003. But they also distribute less perishable items such as canned food, rice and Milo as well as used toys to needy families. FFTH also lines up corporate sponsors for Birthday From The Heart, which are its monthly birthday parties held at welfare homes.

How you can get involved: Cash donations are welcome (call 6259-7176 for more info), but they also need toiletries, clean (and working) toys, clear wrappers for their annual toy drive, non-perishable food items, sweets and drinks for their parties, and milk powder. The Bread Distribution Programme involves only 30-45 minutes a week while work at the Self Collection Centre will only take up 1.5 hours a week.

The Salvation Army

Who they help: The sick, the homeless, the disadvantaged, the elderly, troubled youth, children from disadvantaged families, as well as families affected by crime.

How they help: They manage about 20 social service programs and centers, including the Peacehaven Nursing Home, Youth Development Centre, as well as Family Support Service, including the Prison Support Services that counsels and raises funds for affected families, and childcare centers. The Salvation Army also collects donations in kind to be given to their various centers and sells pre-loved items at their four family thrift stores to raise funds.

How you can get involved: Since Christmas is just around the corner, remember to contribute to the red kettle pots you see around town. You can even volunteer as a bell-ringer stationed at these kettle pots on http://sav-opp.blogspot.com . Check out The Salvation Army website for other ways you can donate and contribute time regularly or on an ad-hoc basis.

Action for Aids Singapore (AFA)

Who they help: Those suffering from HIV and AIDS, as well as their loved ones.

How they help: AFA funds various support groups, works with partners like Rockeby Biomed and the National Council of Social Service to provide monetary support for affected families, hold fundraising and awareness outreach programs, and provide free clinics for legal counseling and anonymous HIV testing.

How you can get involved: There are various departments you can contribute in, depending on your interest and expertise. PR professionals, creatives and writers can help put together monthly e-newsletters and large-scale events. If you’re not afraid of blood, they’ll need your help at the HIV Counseling and Testing Clinic. Email info@afa.org.sg for more information. Donations are also welcome via their website.

Transient Workers Count Too (TWC2)

Who they help: Low-wage migrant workers suffering from problems like poor living conditions, and language and cultural displacement.

How they help: The TWC2 is best known for their Cuff Road Food Programme in Little India, where restaurants serve free meals to migrant workers while volunteers standby to offer free consultations. But the group’s main aim is to advocate fair treatment for workers and they do so by engaging with policy makers as well as business and community leaders as much as possible.

How you can get involved: You can donate to the cause via www.sggives.org or volunteer your service as an interpreter, Cuff Road Food Programme advisor, website staff or just be a buddy to go for a hospital appointment with.

Yellow Ribbon Project

Who they help: Ex-offenders and their families.

How they help: The Yellow Ribbon Project belongs to the CARE Network, which includes other initiatives such as rehab and aftercare programs so ex-prisoners may integrate better into the society.

How you can get involved: Donate to the Yellow Ribbon Fund to help maintain their activities, sponsor things like goodie bags and transport services for Yellow Ribbon events and volunteer as a road marshal or an usher for large-scale projects like the Yellow Ribbon Prison Run. Another way you can show your support is by adopting an artwork created by an inmate via their website or employing an ex-offender.

MILK (Mainly I Love Kids) Fund

Who they help: Children who belong to troubled or impoverished families.

How they help: MILK focuses on raising awareness and funds for children and youth born into disadvantaged families. They also partner with Beyond Social Services to manage groups that counsel children abandoned by parents and teenage mothers.

How you can get involved: Besides donating (at www.sggives.org/milkfund) you can also volunteer in various areas of expertise such as editorial, photography and administrative support. MILK also organizes events such as the Share-A-Meal campaign held on the seventh day of the Lunar New Year where you can help fill up donation tins with “lunch money” for the kids.

Animal Concerns Research and Education Society (ACRES)

Who they help: All animals in need of welfare and protection.

How they help: ACRES’s current causes include the fight against the use of endangered animals in TCM, the cessation of puppy mills, the release of the “World’s Saddest Dolphins” at the upcoming Marine Life Park, an end to shark fin soup and the maintenance of Singapore’s wildlife.

How you can get involved: Be a Wildlife Guardian at the ACRES Wildlife Rescue Centre and assist in caring for the animals there. You’ll be required to attend a training program, which takes place over four weekends. The ACRES Wildlife Rescue Team also serves a key purpose, helping to save local wildlife, pets kept in inappropriate conditions and to help remove animals that wander into homes (snakes, usually). You can also provide support at roadshows, fundraising events and educational presentations, find out more about “Cruelty-Free” products available in Singapore and report any suspected sale of banned animal products.

Singapore Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals

Who they help: Abandoned and abused animals.

How they help: An iconic name in animal welfare, the SPCA advocates responsible pet ownership. They also provide shelters for animals, investigate reports about cruelty and offer 24-hour emergency medical service for animals.

How you can get involved: You can make monetary donations or volunteer to house young animals as part of the SPCA’s FosterCare program. The SPCA gets an overwhelming number of volunteer applications so new opportunities to apply as a volunteer only come up from time to time. Keep tabs on SPCA at www.facebook.com/spcasingapore.

World Vision Singapore

Who they help: Underprivileged children from around the world.

How they help: Helping improve the lives of children affected by natural disasters, war and injustice by providing them with education, healthcare and proper nutrition.

How you can get involved: For as little as $45 a day, you can help change the life of your sponsored child (there are over 5,000 from 14 countries awaiting sponsorship). In return, you’ll get pictures of him/her, an annual report about their progress and opportunities to correspond with them. Check out their website for more details.

Singapore Red Cross

Who they help: People around the region and beyond in need of relief from conflict or catastrophe.

How they help: As part of the international federation of Red Cross societies, SRC provides assistance in health care, humanitarian logistics, migration and disaster management.

How you can get involved: SRC needs writers, photographers/videographers, event planners, drivers, artists, phone operators, performers and first aiders. You can also simply provide blood. Download an application form at SRC’s website.

Donating made easy

Online charity portal SG Gives was launched in 2010 so you can donate to your favorite charities anytime, anywhere. There are no extra charges—every cent you give goes to the charity. This non-profit initiative has been successful in garnering monetary donations for many local charities (it raised $5 million in its first year), and accepts credit card and Internet banking payments.