Gretchen Worth arrived on these shores in 1995 as the founding editor and publisher of I-S Magazine, having decamped from Hong Kong where she served as editor (and one of the founders) of sister title, HK Magazine. From an insect-infested shophouse, Worth and her intrepid team put together the launch issue of I-S, which featured our very first film review (Batman Forever, ugh, starring Val Kilmer), reviews of the still-going-strong restaurants Blue Ginger and Pasta Brava, and, just in time for National Day, tips on where to get your flag dry-cleaned. Worth moved to Bangkok in 2000 where she now heads BK Magazine.

What’s your current state of mind?
Mahasajahn. It’s one of my favorite Thai words, very retro, from the 1930s or ’40s, and it means “marvelous.” I have a lot of good fortune in my life, and it would be ridiculous to feel anything else.

What’s your fondest memory from your time with I-S?
Oh, definitely Mid-Autumn Festival every year, which heralded the arrival of boxes and boxes and boxes of durian mooncakes from all our favorite hotels.

What’s the weirdest thing that ever happened to you at the old offices in Singapore?
There was the time termites ate through two cartons of I-S Restaurant Guides, and it went undiscovered until I opened the boxes one day to find something so weird and disgusting I can’t even begin to describe it. There were the numerous (!) visits from irate restaurant owners who got past our Attila the Hun reception desk and sat across from me and berated me about an I-S restaurant review until they started to cry. Or the time one of the daily papers, which shall remain nameless, plagiarized a story from I-S, and when I called the editor to complain, he acknowledged it but told me I should be flattered. There was also the time, of course, when I-S lost its publishing license for a month in 1997; the ensuing dealings were a bit like entering The Twilight Zone.

Was there any local celebrity that you had wanted to meet, but never did?
Does a Minister Mentor count as a celebrity?

Whom did you meet that you wish you had invited to dinner?
I have a peculiar soft spot for Singapore taxi drivers.

Looking back, would you have done anything any differently?
I’m not sure we’d do it differently, but to this day, the acronym I-S still befuddles people. That was one of the decisions we labored over longest, because in 1995, SG hadn’t yet become the Internet extension for Singapore, S was too stark, and SQ was already taken. Pay attention everyone: It means IN SINGAPORE.

What’s your most unique buy in Singapore?
A book by Chee Soon Juan that I bought from the man himself one lunchtime at Amoy Street hawker center. (Although I still haven’t read it.)

What about you scares others?
I am the world’s fastest walker. High heels, high temperatures, high curbs ... doesn’t matter.

What’s your biggest achievement?
Starting a company 17 years ago with two of my favorite people in the whole world, who, 17 years later, are still two of my favorite people in the whole world.
  
What did you believe 10 years ago that you wish you still believed now?
For better or worse, most of my beliefs have stayed the same.

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Saucy and spanking (ouch!) good, The Magic Fundoshi teases us with tales revolving around lust, desire and sex. We check out four actors in the play to see if they have anything up their kimono sleeves.

Tell us about yourself.

Jonathan Lim: I am a woman on a mission. I am a preserver of Japanese culture, and a believer in romance, poetry, beauty, and a lot of wild sex on the side!

Hossan Leong: I’m the Priest in charge of the Shrine dedicated to the goddess Benten. She is the goddess of love and other related matters.

Koh Boon Pin: I am a local lord … or the Lady Chibusa (depending on the time of night).

Robin Goh: I am Taro Kaja, a servant attached to a large house.

Are you more classy or sassy?

JL: I’m classy in public, sassy in bed. Unless I’m in bed in public, then I’m both.

HL: I am extremely hypocritical, obsessive and greedy. So I think, neither.

KBP: As the philosophers have phrased it, where would we all be without our servants?

RG: I’m too clever to be classy, so I’m sassy.

What is marriage to you?

JL: It is proof that at least one person wanted you enough to link up with you for life, so everyone else should give you a try too!

HL: It is lifetime of bondage … I mean I meant bonding to someone you thought you loved.

KBP: I am a family man, with a wife and three innocent children.

RG: A headache. Always have something on the side so you don’t get bored.

How about tips on carrying on an affair without being found out?

JL: The best way to make sure no one finds out is to tell everyone right away!

HL: If you’re scared of being found out, then don’t have an affair!

KBP: Life is far too short to waste it with the endless and meaningless complications of one of our urban love affairs.

RG: If you live in the country, do it in the city, or vice versa.

Is a fundoshi (loin cloth) important to you?

JL: Oh yes indeed, it is very important. Not having a fundoshi is like receiving a gift without wrapping paper.

HL: Well, I normally don’t wear anything beneath my robe, but if I need a fundoshi, I mail order.

KBP: I might have a need for just something like that.

RG: It is important. I would beg, steal, borrow, lie, cheat and finagle to get it.

Do you believe in magic? 

JL: Oh yes, I believe in magic. A totally ordinary and dull limp man can turn into a raging, throbbing pillar of love and bringer of pleasure. If that’s not magic, what is?

HL: No. Because then, logic won’t apply.

KBP: It looks very interesting, very interesting indeed.

RG: I practice it.

What is the most hilarious encounter you’ve had with a member of the opposite sex?

JL: Only one member? Hmm…

HL: Well, I couldn’t tell whether she was a woman or not, then I found out she was, then she decided not to be, so she became a man, then decided to become a homosexual …

KBP: If one rubbed her in the wrong place, he would end up with no potency at all.

RG: The opposite sex has no sense of humor. Hence, no hilarious time.

Who is your dream woman/man, and why?

JL: The Lord Ichimotsu! He is so noble and upright in every way! I long to kiss his feet, and work upwards from there!

HL: My dream woman is my maid. I mean, who else is willing to take all the abuse and beatings and STILL clean your house?

KBP: Oh, mighty Benten …

RG: My dream man is me.

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These are the things we are constantly being asked during parties, dinners, media events and those verrrry late nights when we get cornered in a dark, noisy club at a time that could best be described as half-past coherence. So, to satisfy your insatiable curiosity about I-S Magazine, here are your top questions answered, once and for all. Print out and save.

I can’t believe I-S Magazine is 10 years old. When did it start?
Our first issue came out on Aug 7, 1995.

If you started in 1995, how come you’re just doing this issue now?
It’s very un-Singaporean of us, but we decided to take a non-kiasu approach and celebrate our anniversary at a leisurely pace. We did our 10th Anniversary Readers’ Choice Awards in September, our 10-year retrospective issue now, and stay tuned for a big, upcoming, celebration event happening soon. Hell, we’re 10 all year long, so what’s the rush?

Don’t you guys ever get in trouble for the stuff you write?
Absolutely not, unless you count the time we got our publishing license taken away for a month due to personals ads which were said to “promote alternative lifestyles,” or the time we got taken to task for a story criticizing the development of Pulau Ubin, or the time we were the victim of a letter-writing campaign against Dan Savage’s raunchy sex advice, or the time we were advised to tone down our coverage of gay issues, or the countless letters and phone calls we’ve gotten from restaurants who received a less-than-stellar review. And let’s not even talk about the people who spew venom over Terry Ong’s film and theater commentaries. Basically, it’s just another day at the office.

How did I-S Magazine start?
Like any successful business venture, it grew out of a genuine market need. In our case, the need to get invited to a better class of cocktail parties.

I love your Restaurant Guide. How can I get a copy?
Friend, you’re in luck. The latest edition of the Restaurant Guide has just been published. You can get one (or 10, they’re great for gifts) by sending $5 per copy to: Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd., Restaurant Guide 2006, I-S Magazine, #13-01 Bangkok Bank Bldg., 180 Cecil St., Singapore 069546.

Will you write about my (choose one): restaurant; nightclub; product launch; sure-fire-hit show; fading career; revolutionary business idea that is destined to change the world?
See below.

All the other magazines write about us when we buy ads. Why not I-S Magazine?
We love to write about our advertisers, and very often do. The difference with us is that the decision of when and how to write about advertisers (and non-advertisers, for that matter) is made by our editorial department, not our ad department. Sometimes this gets us into trouble. Sometimes (shock! horror! break our hearts!) it costs us ad contracts. Very often it makes our sales team pull their hair out, smoke far too many cigarettes and have collective nervous breakdowns. Why go to all the trouble? Because our readers are smart enough to know an honest opinion from a fake one, and because letting advertisers control the content of independent publications is ultimately not good for either the advertiser or the publication.

Who writes the Page 3 editorial?
Various members of our senior editorial staff have contributed over the years, and it’s usually a joint effort. But most of the credit has to go to the many wacky people who say and do such outrageous things. We see ourselves more as scribes or diarists recording the news of the day, with just a little twist.

Is the media environment in Singapore opening up?
Yes, but progress is glacial. There does seem to be more room for political commentary these days, but less for content related to non-traditional sexuality. Change in Singapore occurs through a process of three steps forward, and two steps back. Right now, we’re in the two-steps-back stage.

Who writes your restaurant reviews? Do they really go undercover?
They are written by our super-sneaky team of reviewers who go, order, eat, pay and digest without the knowledge of the restaurant they are reviewing. We choose which places to review and when, always trying to stay on top of new spots and returning to old favorites regularly for an update. Reviewers include our edit staff, plus some trusted freelancers. We write from a typical diners’ perspective, and cover the gamut from fine dining to local holes-in-the-wall. Restaurants do not pay for reviews (and, frankly, some would probably pay us not to come).

Why can’t I ever find you? and Do you do subscriptions?
You’re obviously hanging out in the wrong 365 groovy restaurants, cool coffeeshops, hip health clubs, sophisticated arts venues, and trendy retail shops every Friday, or else you’re just too slow off the mark. Get with the program. Copies go fast, you snooze you lose. No, we don’t offer subscriptions. It’s survival of the fittest.

Gosh, when did you go weekly?
July 2004.

Do you know there’s a magazine in Hong Kong that looks like a rip-off of I-S Magazine?
Yes, we do. And if we’re doing anything at all right, there’s also one that looks like us in Bangkok, and even Shanghai. We all belong to the same company and actually talk to each other (though not enough) and sometimes even plan regional stories together. Like our recent sex survey which revealed that 53% of male and 25% of female readers across Asia have masturbated at work. Where else would you get such vital and riveting facts?

What’s your circulation?
OK, here are the numbers: our average audited pick-up rate per issue currently stands at 28,605 every week. (We are audited by Media Circulations Services of Singapore.) In addition, we mail out or hand out another 865 copies each week on average. That means 29,470 copies are getting into the hands of readers. We print a total of 30,000 copies each issue, so there are only about 500 copies left over at the end of the day – that’s less than two percent of our total print run.

Why do you use American spellings?
In pre-George W. Bush days, we were actually proud that all three founders of our company were from the US (plus, we had already bought the dictionaries). Now we are considering changing the official language of all our magazines to Albanian.

Why is your magazine so big?
Why are the others so small?

Why is I-S Magazine free?
Because the best things in life always are.

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Here’s our pick of 10 things that contributed to Singapore’s X-factor over the past decade.

Not Cutting Himself Short: Royston Tan

While he is most well-known for his 12-minute short film Cut (2004), where he spoofed the board of film censors and consequently got himself blacklisted from the industry for a period of time, bad boy of local film, director Royston Tan, has a slew of quality short films under his belt. They include the cutting-edge Jesses (1999), which used stop motion animation and haunting music, and the multiple award-winning Sons (2000), which also took home the best short film award at the 13th Singapore International Film Festival (SIFF).

But it was Cut that proved to be Tan’s most high profile film to date, as was the controversial 15, which centered on teenage gangs and which suffered 27 cuts before it was given an R(A) rating by the local censors. “I don’t try to project a squeaky clean image of myself on screen,” says Tan. “I’m not perfect … and making Cut was just an honest way for me to express myself to the cuts that had been made to 15,” he concedes.

Certainly, Tan’s immaculate visual style and uneasy themes have garnered him not just much press coverage, but a growing international fan base as well. Tan’s uncensored versions of 15 and Sons, for example, have been shown to critical acclaim in the US, Australia, Spain and Busan, to name just a few places. And he remains one of Singapore’s most successful filmmakers, who is consistently making films and garnering international awards.

While his latest feature film, the quiet and meditative 4.30, which premiered at the recent 56th Berlin International Film Festival and which will close this year’s SIFF, was a change in pace for Tan, rest assured he is not resting on his laurels yet. His next project? “A shocking film that Singapore is not prepared for,” he says with a little chuckle. “I’ve never wanted to be a bad boy … it’s just that I see things differently. I’ve never conformed since young, and I’m still experimenting and still very inquisitive.”

Fashion Forward: Song+Kelly21

Arguably Singapore’s most successful fashion label, 10-year-old Song+Kelly21 is best known for its girly, fuss-free collection of womenswear that straddles casual gear and high fashion. But more than just that, the label, which started as Raw in 1994, is known for paving the way for Singaporean fashion designers into the international fashion arena. During its peak, between 1998-1999, the clothes had high-profile showings in New York and London, and was the “It” Singaporean label to wear. “Who would have thought that I could ever get so excited over a homegrown label back then,” says fashion fan Lena Lee. “If there was a Singaporean label that I would splurge on, Song+Kelly21 would be it.”

Founded by Singaporean Wykidd Song and Briton Ann Kelly, the label has produced about 150 individual designs for each collection throughout its decade-long run. Throughout the years, Song+Kelly21 has been consistently stocked in many boutiques and department stores overseas, including Harrods (New York) and Selfridges (London). Today, the label is stocked in Bangkok, KL, London and Singapore. “When we first started the label, we had already planned to take it overseas,” says Song. “We wanted to set ourselves in the international arena and compete there, and see how we would fare. Over the past decade, there has been only one other Singaporean label that tries to push the edge in terms of design overseas, and that is WOODS & WOODS.”

Song+Kelly21 should be lauded for putting Singapore on the international fashion map, and further spurring inspiring Singaporean labels such as WOODS & WOODS (Jonathan Seow), Kwodrent (Grace Tan) and Hansel (Jo Soh) to make a splash overseas, namely in Europe and Australia.

“I really feel that our local designers are very talented. They just need the extra push, and be encouraged,” adds Song. “I would like to see more designers setting the pace for Singapore-bred labels on an international level. They need to get out there and compete, and be driven to maintain a certain quality.”

Let The Music Play: The Local Indie Music Scene

The recent local rock music revival has been a long time coming, and is spurred by an underground music scene that has been bubbling in music fans’ consciousness since the early ’90s. While the likes of solo artistes such as Singapore Idol Taufik Batisah and jazz crooner Jacintha Abishegenadan have been cutting relatively successful albums, it is the underground rock groups that lend the local music scene here its edge. Mostly self-funded, albums released by bands such as Concave Scream, The Padres, Plain Sunset, Sherene’s Closet, The Oddfellows, Livonia (and more recently, My Squared Circle, Tiramisu, Ronin and Lunarin) over the past decade have been lapped up by local music fans.

“I remember it still being very underground in the ’80s,” says Patrick Chng, The Oddfellows’ vocalist. “The local indie music scene is still very much underground today, but there’re a lot more bands which have made inroads into the mainstream. In the late ’80s, there was very little media exposure and only a handful of music stores stocked local demo cassettes. Then in the ’90s, we burst from the underground to mainstream radio success. What followed was a slew of local songs charting on radio. It was a great period for local music.”

Never mind that the spirit of local rock music scene was pretty much D-I-Y then, as most songs were produced onto cassettes and sold in small independent music stores such as Dada and Roxy Music. “Obviously today, the scene has gotten bigger and more structured … there is more exposure for local bands through the advent of the Internet, and more bands being signed up by the major labels,” says Sean Lam, vocalist of Concave Scream, which was recently signed up by EMI to release its latest album Horizon.

Bands such as Ronin and Electrico also released their albums over the past two years through major labels, but they concede that their music still has an indie vibe to them. “I’ll be the first to admit that hearing our songs being played on radio is a sign of going commercial to many … but underground and commercial music have to co-exist,” says Levan Wee, Ronin’s vocalist. “But we’ll always have that motor-mouth side to us that just can’t shut up. I guess that aspect of our music will never be too commercial.”

In fact, the loud swaggering nature of our local rock bands today is not very much different from those during the ’90s. As Concave Scream’s Lam says, “What goes on today is still pretty much how it was. The Oddfellows’ Chng agrees. “I would like to think we helped shaped the mentality of Singaporeans that local bands are cool to like,” he adds.

Way Out There: ZoukOut

It was the mother of all outdoor parties. The highly anticipated first ZoukOut in 2000 drew in almost 12,000 punters — an unprecedented number back then. While there have been other outdoor parties since, such as En Route at Altivo Bar, the mammoth ZoukOut — which cost $1 million to set up at Sentosa’s Siloso Beach and featured huge DJ names such as Dave Seaman, Richie Hawtin and Les Rythmes Digitales — was the most memorable and trendsetting of them all. It was the beach party to end all beach parties, as copycats which have sprouted since then failed to emulate its success.

“I think the whole idea of a festival was a new thing for most Singaporeans at the time,” says Andrew Ing, Zouk’s then-marketing manager, who came up with the idea to stage ZoukOut. “I used to travel to Miami every year for the Winter Music Conference, and I realized that Singapore and Miami have a lot in common in regard to the weather, but that’s about it. Miami is a sexy place, so why couldn’t Singapore be as sexy? Doing it on the beach allowed us to show the world that Singapore can be sexy too, with all those girls in their bikinis dancing and grinding to the music. And since December was also the rainy season, putting the party on the beach made sense. Throw in that elusive 6am license, and we knew we had a winner.”

Indeed, ZoukOut is such a winning formula, the following four installments — in 2001 (held at Sentosa’s Tanjong Beach), 2002 (Marina Bay Waterfront), 2004 (Siloso Beach) and 2005 (Siloso Beach) — have been equally successful, culminating with last year’s event that pulled in a record 18,000 revelers. Not only is ZoukOut the premier outdoor party here, but its popularity among many overseas punters also makes it an international dance music event that puts Singapore on the world map — with coverage from dance magazines such as Muzik and Mixmag. “All the different parts were ready for such an event — the people were ready, the setting of Sentosa was perfect, the DJs were ready, our team was ready, and Singapore was ready. We knew it would work,” says Ing.

Happy Days: The Local Gay Scene

It may have been a tad short-lived, but being gay was regarded as cool not too long ago. Well, sort of. The local gay community has undergone a paradigm shift over the past two years, following a general optimism among the community in 2003 when then-Prime Minister Goh Chok Tong acknowledged gays working in the civil service, and embraced the monetary clout of the pink dollar. Following that, Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong also spoke of an “open and inclusive Singapore … (where) people should be free to express diverse views, pursue unconventional ideas or simply be different” in his inauguration speech that year.

But actions speak louder than words. Since then, numerous gay parties and events organized by gay portal Fridae.com, such as the annual Nation and Snoball parties, and most recently the Feelin’ Good gig at Ministry of Sound featuring Australian DJ Kate Monroe, have been banned or clamped down because of their gay content.

“Between 2000 and 2004, there was a huge explosion of sorts for the gay community,” says Fridae.com founder Stuart Koe. “Much of the crowd, that had been hiding underground for decades, were slowly coming out to party more, and hanging out at bars such as Taboo and Why Not. The advent of the Internet also kickstarted the scene, as many felt that it was an effective way for them to communicate. It allowed them the anonymity which some preferred, as well as for others to disseminate.”

But it was the massive and funky gay parties that ultimately brought the gay crowd together, especially the Nation parties that were held in Sentosa Island from 2001 to 2004. At its height, the party attracted more than 8,000 punters in 2004, of which 3,000 were tourists. “It was certainly good times among the community for a period of time,” says Koe. “The Nation parties were signs that the community was coming together … and because of it, Singapore became the center of attention with lots of press coverage. People were actually saying that Singapore was fun for once, and it was one of the best parties that they had ever attended.”

Soon enough, foreign media such as The Wall Street Journal and Far East Economic Review labeled Singapore the “gay capital of the world,” and the Singapore government clamped down on parties and events held by Fridae.com. The Nation parties have since moved to Phuket, Thailand, while Snoball is happening annually in Taipei. “The parties have generated good press for Singapore while they lasted, though,” concedes Koe. “It certainly made us cooler than usual … that Singapore was a cool place to live in. It’s more effective than any PR efforts that the Singapore Tourism Board could ever pay for.”

The Party Strip That Was: Mohamed Sultan

It was not dubbed “party central” for nothing. What started as a sleepy neighborhood with nary a partygoer in sight, Mohamed Sultan boomed into the place to party between 1995 and 1997, and later on between 1999 and 2001. Singapore’s nightlife experience was not complete without a visit to Mohamed Sultan, where some of the hippest and trendiest clubs such as Sugar, Club Eden, Amoeba, Nox and Lush were packing them in.

It all started in 1991, when ex-Business Times sub-editor Peter Wong installed a watering hole called Front Page for newspaper employees near Times House. Soon enough, bars and clubs sprouted left, right and center, and Mohamed Sultan became a club hopper’s paradise. But it wasn’t until the launch of Peter Wong and Simon Lim’s Wong San’s in 1994 that the stretch got put on the party map.

During its boom periods, the street attracted beautiful people, celebrities and big spenders. Some of the most famous faces seen at Mohamed Sultan include actor Jason Scott Lee, R&B diva Ultra Nate, late Hong Kong superstar Anita Mui, and actress Bai Ling. It also played host to some of the most lavish parties in town, including I-S Magazine’s fifth anniversary party, the first and only street party of its kind held along Mohamed Sultan, and hosted by Lim. “Back in those days, the street was heaving, and there were definitely more than a few cool concept bars and clubs that created a buzz,” says Lim. “Amoeba and Sugar were cutting edge … and there was a good overall mix, from expat bars to local bars to pool bars to dance clubs. It was a very interesting place for people to want to check it out.”

Partygoers certainly revved up the street then, as Mohamed Sultan was the only stretch where they could club hop all night. From the kitschy dance music at Sugar to leftfield dance tunes at Nox to beautiful chillout lounge Amoeba, there was something for everyone. While Mohamed Sultan has since disintegrated to just a regular bar stretch today, pulling in a younger set, the experience there was unforgettable for most who had frequented it almost every weekend. “There will always be some of us who spent the best of our party days in this area,” says Sugar’s Gary Sng, “At its peak there were so many clubs each with its own style and clientele, so I think different people will have different reasons for remembering Mohamed Sultan.”

Hipper Than Thou: Cool Neighborhoods

Over the last decade, with the impressive rise of prominent restaurants, pubs, hip fashion boutiques and unique features, once mostly tranquil residential areas and neighborhoods like Holland Village, Club Street and Arab Street have evolved from heartland havens to leading scenes all their own.

“Apollo would not have moved in if we weren’t there,” Michael Hadley, co-founder of Michelangelo’s, boldly proclaims of the restaurant’s impact on Holland Village. “We changed the perception of what Holland Village is. It was hardly recognized eight years ago, but after we opened three restaurants there, other people wanted to come in.”

Indeed, from just a few eateries, miscellaneous shops and even a kindergarten, Holland Village — with its influx of restaurants, reputable bars and boutiques like Harry’s Bar, Wala Wala and Antipodean — has certainly grown out of the shell of the looming HDB blocks into something of a scaled down version of more popular hot spots like Clarke Quay, attracting a clued-in, lifestyle driven, hip set.

Meanwhile, the Chinatown area, especially along Club Street, Ann Siang Hill and Duxton Hill, is where you can find exclusive fashion and lifestyle boutiques like Asylum, Allan Ross and Venue, and the many cafés, chillout joints and clubs that have come into their own over the past decade, giving the traditional neighborhood a contemporary facelift. The recently hip Arab Street is also where it’s at for some rare fashion finds from White Room and Comme des Garcons Guerilla Store, and cool sheesha cafes such as Mosi Café and Café Le Caire.

So what is it that really sets these places apart? The mix between the old and the new might have a lot to do with their appeal. “There’s a very eclectic mix of business and restaurants, and of course for the historical reference of Chinatown,” said Yaddo Art owner Abigail Prior Levy, on why she chose to set up in Duxton Hill.

These cultural hubs, however, are in danger of losing their particular X-factor … or, at least, that’s what Hadley seems to think about Holland Village. “I don’t think Holland Village has kept its edge,” he says bluntly. “The landlords are not working together and there are far too many owners. It’s not like a mall, where there’s a certain mix. There is no master plan.” Whether Hadley’s words will ring true for the future of the area remains to be seen. For now, these places still buzz with the crowds.

Young at Heart: Hip Conserved Historic Buildings

What’s old is new again … and it’s hotter than it ever was. With historic buildings set up for conservation, Singapore has managed to not only keep a part of its rich heritage intact, but has also spun something contemporary out of it.

Compared to the ’80s, when everything from the past was seemingly due for extinction, the ’90s saw us embracing our history. In the past decade, the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) has been actively conserving historic buildings either for their location or distinctive architectural style. To date around 6,800 buildings have been gazetted for conservation, including The Fullerton Hotel and various shophouses in Chinatown, Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Arab Street.

Entrepreneur Loh Lik Peng has been pushing the boundary of this conservation effort, with his groovy boutique hotels the New Majestic Hotel, which opened just recently at Bukit Pasoh in Chinatown, and Hotel 1929 in 2002. “At the back of the 1929, we had a Jacuzzi, which was considered a novelty at the time,” he said. “We were also the first to have a sky garden, which was actually pretty controversial.” But Loh had to fight a little for his vision that was 11 years in the making. “The URA actually had a small issue with it, but they approved it in the end after some thorough discussions,” he adds.

Nevertheless, the hotels have now taken their places beside other conserved milestones such as the row of shophouses along Emerald Hill and Boat Quay. Loh, however, feels that there needs to be a limit to the rules of conservation, and that some artistic liberties still need to be taken to add a dash of modern and local elements to the buildings. “Having local artists provide an artistic component is one of the ways to incorporate local elements into these buildings, yet keeping them hip and modern all the same,” he explained. “Singapore still struggles with her identity, and I agree that a lot of this preservation is important. But at the end of the day, no one wants to stay in an ‘old’ place as it has a shelf life. ‘Updates’ on these conserved buildings are important to make them work.”

The URA and owners like Loh may still be trying to find that right balance of old and new, but for now, these landmarks remain some of the most stylish and unique on our streets, ever.

High Art: Local Theater Circa 1999-2001

Local theater has certainly seen better days. It was not very long ago when local theater companies such as TheatreWorks, Toy Factory Theatre Ensemble, The Necessary Stage (TNS) and Singapore Repertory Theatre (SRT) were at the forefront of quality and experimental theatrical productions which defined the burgeoning arts scene here.

Who could forget the much-talked about epics Lear (1999) and Desdemona (2000) by TheatreWorks’ controversial Artistic Director Ong Keng Sen, the onslaught of sex plays Asian Boys Vol. 1 by TNS, and smaller, more intimate dramatic gems such as Autumn Tomyam (2001) by ACTION Theatre, Titoudao (2000) by Toy Factory, and Eleemosynary (2001) by luna-ID. They were brave and unpredictable plays that made theatergoing a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

“There was a buzz and real sense of hope in theater in those early days between 1999 and 2001,” says Parvathi Nayar, correspondent for The Business Times. “It was as if new grounds were being broken then. The annual Singapore Arts Festival got into a new edge-of-the-moment mode, and there were also nice discussions and debates created by Lear and Desdemona. It felt that, all round, perhaps, wow, theater and the arts are on the way to becoming part of the stuff we discuss like the movies.”

Fueled by an increasing interest in the scene, directors such as the Toy Factory’s Goh Boon Teck and W!ld Rice’s Ivan Heng pushed the envelope with more forward thinking plays including A Tinted Edge (2000) and Animal Farm (2002) respectively, but that’s as good as it gets.

Soon enough, with the onslaught of SARS and the recession taking their toll, theater companies became more concerned with commercial viability and filling up seats in performance spaces, and their quality suffered, resulting in countless lackluster plays such as Dangerous Liaisons (2005), Mardi Gras (2003) and Spring Singing (2005). “Perhaps it was inevitable because harsh realities always overtake dreams,” adds Nayar. “That the struggle for survival is hard … with sponsorship, raising money and all that stuff. And sometimes you feel there is a lack of cohesiveness among the players with too many plays opening at the same time.”

Still, we are hopeful that local theater can revisit its earlier glory days, if the practitioners can put their heads together, and come up with more creative and groundbreaking plays that may not necessarily be commercial, but are bold statements in their own right, much like those from the later ’90s and early ’00s.

A Taste for Durian: Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay

It rose from the mud of the Marina Bay and, with its twin domes of metal spikes, attracted the glint of the sun and both bouquets and brickbats. Now, four years after it opened in 2002, there is little doubt that Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay has had a major impact upon Singapore, injecting life, color and energy into the cultural scene. The numbers speak for themselves: in 2005 the center welcomed over seven million visitors, a 39 percent increase on the previous year.

There were many—largely local artists—who predicted the center would flop because the local arts community would not be represented. But as J P Nathan, Director of Programming at The Esplanade Co. Ltd., explains: “One key focus for Esplanade since its opening has been to grow and nurture local talents in the Singapore arts industry across all fields. Some 30,000 from the local arts community [local talents involved in each performance] have been welcomed here, in a variety of venues ranging from outdoor to indoor spaces … non-ticketed to ticketed shows.”

The center has also encouraged shared knowledge, with musicians such as Jeremy Monteiro, The Observatory and Bushmen opening for star international acts James Moody, Tortoise and The Skatalites respectively, besides inviting artists to workshops by international talents. Indeed, you would be hard pressed to find a local artist who hasn’t worked with Esplanade.

And no, despite what your taxi driver will tell you, Esplanade isn’t just for the rich. Its 04/05 Annual Report reveals 799,745 people attended free performances, including ground-breaking events such as BayBeats and the New Year’s Eve Celebration. But perhaps Esplanade’s greatest achievement is the quality of the international acts being brought in. Non-commercial shows which would never reach our shores due to their esoteric, unprofitable nature—international legends such as kd lang, Patti Austin, Youssou N’Dour, Jessye Norman, Pat Methany, Poncho Sanchez, and Cloud Gate Dance Theatre, to name just a few—have dazzled audiences starved for star acts.

As to what international artists think of Esplanade, the vote is always unanimous. As Maceo Parker said, after opening for the 2006 Mosaic Music Festival, “The festival was organized to the highest standard. Everyone was wonderful and professional. I’ve participated in probably thousands of festivals worldwide and I would say this has been an experience to rate in the top five or six. It takes love and commitment to produce this kind of quality.”

A lot can change over the course of 10 years and here at I-S, we've compiled a little table of numbers to show you what are some of the changes that has taken place in our lives besides us morphing from being called "kor kor" and "jie jie" to today's "uncle" and "auntie"... Oh-the-horror...

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A member of the well-known and well-respected Bunnag clan, Tew Bunnag shuns the spotlight and hiso parties in favor of the simple life. He writes and volunteers at the Human Development Foundation, which helps children affected with HIV in Klong Toey. His latest book is After the Wave, the proceeds from which will go to education projects for children in the South. We caught up with Tew before an appearance at the “The Author Speaks…”, a series of live readings organized by the British Council and the Oriental Hotel.

What was your childhood like?
My father was a diplomat, and he was posted in London when I was very young. So I left Thailand without really understanding why we were leaving. I found myself in a completely different culture, which I had to adapt to. In those days, there were much greater differences between East and West. I was brought up surrounded by books, as my mother was a well-known translator—she translated the novel Prissana to English.

What was your favorite book at the time?
I liked the Arabian Nights, and I still read it now. I still keep the old copy that I had when I was seven. The next English book I read was Lord of the Rings.

What did growing up in England give you?
I think when I learned how to deal with life in between the two worlds, it gave me a certain perspective on Thai society—a great appreciation of it, actually. I know ways of appreciating details and subtlety of Thai society, like none of my friends who are here can understand. That’s because I look at things from the outside and that gives a very nice perspective.

What are the messages you want to get across in your writing?
I don’t think I have a message to tell from my books so much as questions. Questioning for me is more important than trying to give out a message. I mean, I do have messages. I think we should be aware of where we’re going, rather than just going toward, let’s say, one big shopping mall.

And what are the questions?
This society now is very different from the society I grew up in; there are great mobility and great changes. I think that we still have a very long way to go until we get a decent and just society. I think at the moment it’s really important to patiently ask ourselves what quality of life do we want, what to keep and what can be discarded from the tradition, rather than just stay where it is and end up shopping.

What do you get from volunteering?
When you work as a caretaker, it’s not really about virtue or piety. Those kinds of reasons don’t really get you through. What you learn, really, is how courageous people are, how strong they are. In particularly when you work with people who are really sick, you get this sense of perspective of celebrating simple things in life like friendship or a cup of tea. I watch all the things and I realize how fragile life is. It’s a big lesson. It’s what is called direct dharma, direct teaching.

What is After the Wave about?
I want to tell how people survive the terrible things that happen to them. I saw such brave people—people who had nothing in the first stage and then that little they had was swept away. They have to start and build up again. I don’t think you can avoid sadness because people are still very sad down there. But it tends to be hopeful. What always attracts me is how humans can go through such terrible things like losing the ones we love.

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Arunee Nachalee, 35, is a hairdresser who doesn’t work in a salon or a barbershop. Her workplace is on the side of Khao San Road where she sits on a low stool every day waiting for customers. A profession that is one of the highlights of this hustling-bustling road, Arunee and many of her peers do dreadlocks, hair extension and hair braiding for farangs and Thais night after night.

What is the most popular hairstyle right now?
Now hair extension is very popular among Thais.

How much is it?
Well, a row from left to right of your head is about B500 for long hair. All heads need about five to six rows, so it’s around B2,500.

What is the most expensive hairstyle?
Dreadlocks. If we use real hair to do it, it will take a very long time—and will cost about B7,500. But if we use artificial hair, it’s quicker so it will cost just about B2,000-2,500.

During which periods are you busiest?
It depends, but mostly at the end of each month. The two or three days before Songkran are also very busy days.

What are your working hours?
I sleep during the daytime and work from 4-11pm. If I have customers, I stay longer. Sometimes the municipal police raid the area and I have to run before that. I work on Monday as well. But I have to watch out for municipal police. I set my stand very close to the footpath.

What don’t you like about this job?
Some customers don’t wash their hair before they come, mostly farang. Some haven’t washed their hair for months. Especially the ones who have dreadlocks will tie their hair and leave it like that for ages. When I untie it, I nearly die from the bad smell, but I still have to service them.

Is the money good?
If I can do a head every day, I can make enough for a living. But some days I have no customers at all, though that’s not often.

Is the price for foreigners and Thais the same?
Pretty much the same. Other hairdressers might charge more for foreigners, but I don’t. Foreigners should even pay less, as they most likely have thinner hair than Thais.

Do you come to celebrate Songkran at Khao San every year?
Yes, I do, but this year I will take my daughter to Hua Hin. Last year I came here and there was a lot of fighting. A guy even threw a beer bottle at some others. I was afraid that it would fly my way. So, no more for this year.

What is the main problem working here?
The municipal police, of course. You know, we do an honest job to earn a living, but they keep coming to drive us away. I don’t think it’s fair. And if we can’t escape in time, they will take one or two of our things. Then we have to go to them and pay them to get the things back. If we don’t, they will come troubling us. So we just pay B100 or B200 or whatever.

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Vanpe Sajamark or Jay, 34, is an up-and-coming young blood in the sports business. He’s part of the new generation of sports news anchors on Channel 7, a host and producer of the golf program T-Off on UBC, a co-founder and teacher at the Bangkok Cleveland Golf School and one of the most sought after sport commentators and MCs. With his solemnly polite look and perfect English and Thai language skills, he opts for the intellectual side of sports rather than the competitive.

My philosophy is if you don’t try, then you don’t know. This is how I was brought up. So when I was back, less than a month, from the States and Khun Suppaporn Mapuangpong asked me to join commentating a NFL match, I said, “OK, let’s try.”

I learn by doing but Khun Suppaporn also coached me along while we were commentating. That day, I was very excited and nervous. I probably said three sentences in three hours. After doing it for a while, I learned when you can talk, what you can say, and how you can say it.

You may not always like what you try, but there’s no harm in trying. Give it a shot and if you don’t like it, then step back. But if you like it, then pursue it.

There’s a difference between a touring pro golfer and a teaching pro golfer. A touring pro has the knowledge and the ability to win. A teaching pro has the knowledge, he can explain to other people how to do it, but he may not necessarily have the ability to do it himself. I now have the knowledge to be a teaching pro, but I can’t do all the things a touring pro can.

Not that this is an unsatisfactory life to lead, but by that time I graduated, I had to join the real world. I know that I have to work and you can’t have a career and be a professional touring golfer at the same time.

If my family had enough money so that I could just buzz around for a few years, then I would probably have practiced golf to try to go on tour.

Golf is a gentleman’s sport and it has integrity. It doesn’t have a referee with a whistle seeing if you are doing anything wrong.

Every golfer pretty much governs himself. You know the rules, you obey the rules and you penalize yourself.

If I came back and pood Thai mai koi chud, people probably wouldn’t mind it so much because I’ve been away so long and I left when I was young. For being in the States for 13 years with just one visit to Thailand and one Thai friend, I still speak Thai quite clearly.

I think to be able to speak Thai clearly is something you should be able to do as a Thai person. I don’t understand why somebody would go for a master’s degree and come back and pood mai chud.

Petprauma is what kept my Thai intact. My dad handed me a copy of Phraimahakarn Part I and I started reading that before I went to the States. While I was in the States, my dad had somebody mail me every issue. So I had a chance to continually read Thai.

If I don’t start something, that’s OK. But if I do decide to start, I truly prefer to finish it.

I get to learn about life more so than if I wasn’t in the spotlight. I get to meet more people doing what I do. At the beginning of the year, a few of the world class golfers came and I MCed the show.

You see good things and you see bad things. Some people you meet and you realize that you like them better when you didn’t know them. Some people you like more when you get to know them.

In ten years, I will still try new things, but golf will always be part of my life, I’m sure.

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Photographer Peter Skalberg takes snapshots of graffiti and turns them into works of art.

Never mind that stencil art is an almost non-existent art form in Singapore. Australian painter-photographer Peter Skalberg, who travels frequently to New York and back home to Melbourne, finds a certain charm in it. “On my travels, especially in Melbourne and New York, I come across striking pieces of work,” he says. “I photograph them and have been lucky enough to have the work displayed for exhibition. It’s taken many years to get to this spot today, but it’s been worth it.” All 40 photographs in the exhibition, each of them one-offs, are reproduced onto textured A1 and A0 high format paper, and cost between $1,500-2,300 each. We talk to Skalberg about his first solo exhibition here.

Why your fascination with stencil art?
My fascination is not just for stencil art, although there is a lot of it appearing on the walls of Melbourne. I’m just fascinated with any organic type of art that captures my imagination. This could be a poster that has been recreated to communicate a message, or a graffiti-based piece of work that has been re-edited into an identifiable shape or face.

It’s fascinating because there is real talent involved with many of these images. They are spontaneous, dynamic and real. There is nothing false about the work and it comes from the heart. It’s produced via emotion and insight. In an age of consumer marketing and advertising where most images we see are perfected and created in a closed environment, the work we see on the walls of streets in NY and Melbourne are pure expressions untainted by consumerism.

Why photography?
The organic nature of stencil is such that it may appear only for a few weeks or days, and it is then replaced with another image—they are very representative of life itself. Everything changes and is reformed into new life via the life cycle. My interest is to capture these moments of expression, and ultimately show others as well. Whilst I paint and have my own creative talents, it is my perspective on what I am seeing that is important and how I can communicate it.

Do you think stencil art will ever become a phenomenon in Singapore?
Stencil art will never become a phenomenon in Singapore in our lifetime. Urban art, or whatever you want to call it, is organic, real and a natural expression of an individual. The Singapore I know would never let people stencil work or paint on the sides of buildings at their own creative pleasure; and they shouldn’t, as it would ruin the look of the city. The work that I have represented in the exhibition are small samples of thousands of images appearing in Melbourne and New York, and they can be a real eyesore. So, for good reasons, we will not be seeing this type of work in Singapore.

Who are some of your favorite stencil and street artists?
These street artists are anonymous. That’s the beauty of the work. It comes and goes and anybody can add to it. It’s the energy, color and simplicity of the work that appeals to me.

What’s the main theme or point that you’re trying to address with this exhibition?
The main objective of the exhibition is to reveal other directions in art such as urban art that can be just as interesting, involving and appealing as a Rembrandt painting. Hopefully people will see the realness of the work, its organic birth and depth.

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Fiery dancer Antonio Marquez recently set the stage on fire with his sensual dance moves at the Divine Flamenco—The Art of Passion performance at the Kallang Theatre. This handsome and well-built family man talks to us about spending quality time with his wife and kids, as well as other things that make him tick.

What is your current state of mind?
I feel very calm. I think that I am in that mature age.

What did you want to be when you grew up?
I’ve always wanted to be an artist or a dancer.

What is your biggest achievement?
I make an effort so that I can perform better than in all my previous works. Repetition supports my present life.

What inspires you?
Love, passion, hope, and always being peaceful with myself.

What personal trait do you appreciate the most in others?
I appreciate the logical professional person, and those who keep their promises.

Do you have a cause or do you support one?
First of all, I respect people equally. Without any discrimination against race, sex and class. I think that these things are very necessary to live together.

Which living person do you admire most and would like to invite for dinner?
I respect my wife, and I’d invite her for dinner. She knows the difficulty of the world of the artist, and supports my life.

What are you reading?
I was reading The Da Vinci Code. I like suspense novels, but the characters should be sensual.

How do you spend your Sunday mornings?
I try to spend Sunday mornings with my family.

What is your idea of hell?
I suppose that hell is not far from each part of the world. Some human beings are good, and others are bad. If you encounter a bad person, maybe that place at that time is hell. We should learn from mistakes, but perhaps we would not learn from them without losing the fight and experiencing the ruin.

What is your guilty pleasure?
I do not smoke nor drink, so perhaps my guilty pleasure may be work. I am very strict with myself and at the same time, I require many things from others. Sometimes I forget that each person’s ability is different.

How do you recharge?
Being with my family.

What’s playing in your Ipod/MP3/CD player?
When I have time, I listen to lots of music genres on my Ipod.

Where would you like to live?
I want to live in Malaga in Southern Spain, because the climate there is so stable and it is not so humid. In the day time it is very warm, and at night it is moderately cool.

What is your favorite item of clothing?
Watches and shoes.

What accessory sets you apart?
I have a nature of keeping things, so I have kept memories since early childhood. I lived on the island of Ibiza, and many tourists have visited there. They gave me many things and I treasure all their gifts.

What about you that scares others?
I have a fear for the future.

If you had to play a character in a movie, which movie and which character?
I want to play the character that defends weak people, because I want to help others.

What did you believe at 18 that you wish you still believed now?
When I was young, I decided the aim in my life, and tried to achieve that goal. Even if I have attained the goal, I will not forget the original intention. You must always remember your original intention.

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Fancy stretch limos aren’t the kind of wedding cars you’d expect to find Ken Teo dealing with. Instead, the founder of Ken’s Vintage Wedding Rentals will get you to the chapel on time—but in a more compact fashion. I-S met up with him to talk about why size doesn’t matter.

Why did you decide to use vintage Volkswagens for wedding cars?
I love these cars, and I want to give others a chance to experience and enjoy them, especially on their special day. I really want to offer something different from the usual and boring Mercs, Jags, Beemers, MPVs and SUVs that so many are inclined to use due to lack of creativity, or fear of being different.

How long have you been running this business?
My first rental was in 1999. It was Awesome Blossom (a Light Grey 1967 Beetle), at a friend’s request. The wedding guests seemed to love the idea, and since then business has been growing by word of mouth, and the idea has taken on a life of its own.

How many Volkswagens do you have?
In 2002, I added a second VW, named Rollin’ Raggae (an Aqua Blue 1966 Beetle) to my collection and a Black 1971 Morris Minor called Slow Moe in 2004. Go to www.blackbeansource.com for pictures!

And they are all vintage Volkswagens?
Currently, I have two vintage VWs and a Morris Minor available for rent, and plan to expand my fleet to five or more within the next three years.

Which is your favorite model?
Slow Moe. He’s just black and classy, while Blossom and Raggae are more fun and retro.

How much did it cost you to amass them? 
Not too much, but a lot of time is taken to keep them in good running order and looking presentable. It’s a labor of love.

Have you ever had problems fitting the bride and her father into the car?  
Getting in is usually not the problem, but getting out and trying to look glamorous at the same time takes a bit of innovation. I usually have the front passenger seat removed on the two-door Beetles for easier access.

Do you just drive the cars or is any other service provided?
The cars may be rented self-drive, or for photo shoots and film.

How do the guests at the wedding normally react to the cars?
“Wah! What’s the car plate number, hor? Tonight can strike 4-D!” But seriously, the older folks get a real kick out of the nostalgia, while the younger generation is simply surprised that the cars actually move.

Any bridesmaids hit on you because of the cars? 
No, but I’ve encountered a bride’s mother who seemed interested in more than just my car. Yuck.

Have there ever been any “unscheduled activities” on the back seats of your cars?
I try to keep my eyes on the road when I’m driving. But as long as they don’t stain the seats…

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