10 Thai fusion dishes that actually work
From khaosoy burgers to larb fries, here’s why the f-word is no longer something to be feared in Bangkok.
This is not the only fusion offering at food truck Daniel Thaiger's new restaurant spin-off (larb fries for the win!). Not a burger in the traditional sense—you'll need a knife and fork—but we love how the herb-packed pork patty pairs with the crispy basil leaves and house-made larb mayonnaise. All served up on a sticky rice "bun."
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 097-052-8861. BTS Thong Lo
Basically the fries equivalent of the much-loved Pretz larb flavor, only featuring fresh larb toppings rather than dusty MSG. It also comes served with a spicy Thai dipping sauce that ties the whole thing together really well—especially when paired with an ice-cold beer.
Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288
Amantee's ficelle (like a baguette but thinner) has a seductive, slightly-burnt aroma. The crust is crisp without being a jawbreaker, while the inside is fluffy and packed with flavor owing to that classic kaprao mix of chili, holy basil, garlic and fish sauce.
2240/12-13 Chan Kao Rd., 02-678-1300
This burger makes on-off appearances on the menu at Suk 11's top burger joint. If you're a fan of street-side staple pad kaprao, you'll dig this burger which packs 180g beef patty, spicy sauce, crispy fried basil and, of course, a fried egg.
At Baa Gaa Din, chefs Thitid Tassanakajohn and Chandler Schultz aim to redefine Thai street food, occasionally calling on the subtlest fusion touches. The tom yum gung ceviche is zesty and pungent like the Latin American dish it takes its name from, with a puree that adds a creamy, intense dimension.
26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813
This sweet outlet from chef Ian Kittichai’s much-loved Issaya Cooking Studio adds playful Thai twists and flavor combinations to classic French treats. The prices are rather hefty, but the Thai-inspired macarons in flavors such as the smoky kao mao, refreshing tub tim krob, uniquely aromatic vanilla tien oob, tamarind, prik pao chocolate and even salted egg yolk are very popular, and for good reason.
5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5636. BTS Phloen Chit
Paste is helmed by two of Bangkok's most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, whose reinterpreted Thai menu centers on rare produce and old aristocratic family recipes. An unlikely place for fusion fare perhaps, but outside of delicately plated curries and salads they've also been playing around Chinese bao in various fillings. We love the succulent pork option, complete with house-made chili jam and pickled shiitake mushroom.
3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit
The Water Library group's Seed rolls out refined comfort food with an emphasis on local quality produce in a casual, rustically-inclined atmosphere. But as well as ribs and steak, you’ll also find dishes that bear Mediterranean-Asian twists like this pasta. Instead of being straight Italian, this whole crab pasta reminds us of good ol' poo ob woonsen (clay pot glass noodles with crab) right down to the aroma of coriander root and ginger
104 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 099-283-6363, 094-429-7777
Thai rice noodles with somtam is pretty commonplace, so to spruce the dish up this modern Thai restaurant turns it into a form of sushi. The seaweed is wrapped around local rice noodles, instead of Japanese rice, and topped with deep-fried, crispy papaya. And rather than dipping the sushi in shoyu, you get somtam sauce. Somehow it all works. Another interesting dish here is the larb salmon takoyaki for the same price.
2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, 02-662-3060. BTS Asoke
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