This first Bangkok branch of Japanese chain Sushi Cyu, tucked away on the 3/F of All Seasons Place (the second is in Thonglor), may look a little dark and gloomy with its dated décor. But its yakiniku zone is often packed with diners grilling all manner of fine meat cuts. There’s also a sushi counter which is a little quieter, with reason. Here, the menu is classic Japanese with some dishes a touch on the expensive side—a price you purportedly pay for freshness. However, while their sashimi is above average, we’ve had fresher and more flavorsome elsewhere. Similarly, the tempura moriawase (mixed tempura set, B350) is a bit dull and not deserving of its price tag. The batter is much too heavy compared to what you get at other venues, meaning you can’t really taste the filling, whether it’s prawns, squids or vegetables. The omakase (Chef’s sushi selection, B1,100) comes with roughly 11 types of fish, but your enjoyment largely hinges on what’s available on the day. We say it’s best to steer clear of these standard dishes and try something like the sarumeika maruyaki (grilled squid, B300) which doesn’t look like much but is among the best squid we’ve ever tried: cooked to perfection, fresh and sweet. The real highlight of the dish is the rich side sauce made of squid entrails which makes for a perfect, if pungent, companion. If you want to sit in the somewhat calmer sushi zone, you can still order grilled meat—you’ll just have to hand over cooking duties to the Japanese chefs. Order the meats cooked to your liking, and order in abundance. The jyu karubi (rib meat, B450) is juicy and aromatic, but it comes as a small plate of six pieces which simply isn’t enough. There isn’t much of a vibe, but this is a decent option if you’re after a low-key, tasty meal—perhaps just stick to the grill side of the menu. Corkage B300.