Kumi’s superfood-laden menu (antioxidant this, quinoa that) popped up just before Bangkok’s newfound health food obsession, so we wouldn’t accuse this Sathorn restaurant of riding the trends. The space is minimalist and vaguely industrial, with a nice terrace out front, but probably doesn’t classify as “cool.” Nor does the largely middleaged, expat clientele. The pounding house music during dinner on our last visit was just… weird.
Yet the food, which cherrypicks from Asia and the Mediterranean, is not without reward. Wraps, sandwiches, pastas and risottos are joined on the menu by a “Thai corner” and various protein-forward mains. Kumi is at its best when it keeps the onus on fresh produce, as in the standout vegetarian “mille-feuille” (B340), a fine layering of roasted eggplant, bell pepper, asparagus, goat cheese and pesto dressing. We wish every dish were as inventive and well-executed. The nicely marinated grilled prawns served with a smooth eggplant “caviar” (like baba ghanoush minus the tahini, B380) and lime wedge comes close, though the awkward plating is an example of style over substance.
However, some mains take the healthy concept to ascetic realms, like the “creamy” pesto pasta (B320) which, though perfectly al dente, lacks both garlicky edge and creaminess. The chalkboard special of baked chicken in a light garlic parmesan crust (B400) is also underwhelming. Seasoning levels that are all over the place manifest in some extremely salty crisp potatoes. Still, it’s comforting if not all that exciting.
Desserts like the very decent chocolate fondant with ice cream (B180) add some decadence, while wine starts from a not-tooshabby B240/glass.
Amid its more fashionable Sathorn Soi 10 -12 neighbors, Kumi still makes a sound neighborhood lunch option for its veggie-centric dishes and excellent smoothies (from B150). Would we travel across town to try it? Probably not.