1. Kim Aeng
Gluay chuem (sweetened banana with coconut milk, B20) may be a mainstay at any market, but this stall’s auntie has dedicated more than 30 years of her life to serving up her delicious secret recipe. The flavor has changed little over the years, and you can be guaranteed the banana, sourced from Phetchaburi, won’t be soggy and the magical coconut milk will be so light, fresh and addictive, you’ll be licking your bowl clean.
084-971-7876. Open daily 9am-6pm
2. Tek Heng
The story goes that the owners’ great-great-grandfather once cooked the very same mee krob (fried rice noodles with marinated garlic, palm sugar and soy sauce, B120) recipe they still serve today for HM King Rama V. In any case, their use of genuine som saa (bitter orange) is a rare treat nowadays, making this mee krob the real deal—aromatic and perfectly piquant.
02-466-9170, 02-466-9037. Open daily (except the last Mon of every month) 10am-10pm
Right next to the railway station, you’ll find lots of yummy stalls clustered together from poh pia sod (fresh spring rolls with greens) to yen ta fo (noodles with red sauce) and guay jub (Chinese noodles). All are full of flavor but this grungy stall, Sab, is worth mention for their impressive pladuk foo (crispy catfish with salad) that’s fried to a delicious crispiness that’s so hard to find nowadays.
Open daily 9am-9:30pm
This shophouse offers both ped yang (grilled duck, B100) and ped palo (braised duck, B100). The ped yang is good but we find the ped palo irresistibly yummy, mildly herbed and super juicy. Sadly, the grandpa proprietor is growing tired and isn’t sure how long he’ll be keeping shop, so do be sure to drop in for a bite when you’re in the neighborhood.
081-613-6239, 02-893-3306, 083-844-1002. Open daily 6am-6pm
5. Kanom Bueng Su Arpa
Wonderful kanom bueng Yuan (Yuan pancakes, B40) are a rare treat. We’re mighty grateful that this auntie still uses the finest ingredients to come up with her delightful stuffing, especially the shredded coconut with shrimp head, that go wonderfully with her expertly prepared pancakes. There's no seating here so you’ll need to gobble them on-the-go.
086-988-5054. Open Tue-Sun 6-9pm; Sun 11am-7pm
6. Pad Thai Jay Wan
Everything at this shophouse is on the money—the noodles are not soggy or greasy, the fragrance is heavy on the tamarind juice and slightly smoky, while the shrimps are fresh and naturally sweet. Available on weekdays only, this pad Thai (B30) is simply superb, showcasing some of the very best frying techniques in town.
089-054-7214. Open Mon-Fri 4-11pm
Unlike other namtaohu stalls, this grandma’s soy milk
(B10) is not overly sweet. It’s naturally sweet, rich and very fragrant. A must.
087-910-3533. Open Tue-Sun 4-9:30pm
8. Tor Janpen
With its stunning braised beef, properly cleaned entrails and super-flavorful soup (B60), Tor Janpen ranks top of every beef noodles list in the city. The place also sports a very friendly owner who’ll convince you to end your meal with their kanom Thai, such as the luscious tua kiew tom (sweetened mung bean, B12).
02-891-4042. Open daily 9am-6pm
9. Kanomwan Talad Plu
Pick up a queue card and get in line for this dynamic dessert shophouse which boasts that their kanom is preservative-free. For more than 60 years, the desserts here having been drawing in the crowds. Just brace yourself for some marathon eating. We can’t stop peeling the kanom chan (Thai custard) apart and devouring it layer by layer—a delightfully sinful dish.
02-466-9332. Open daily 2-7pm
10. Bamee Tongleng
This stall selling yummy noodles in the Teochew style is now run by second generation owners. The homemade noodles (B40) are pleasingly chewy and egg-y, while the condiments are also tasty and evidently of good quality. The same family actually runs four branches in the same neighborhood, all with different opening times, so it’s not too hard to get your fix. Otherwise, you can just drop by for some dried noodles if you feel like cooking at home.
02-466-5168, 089-990-9200. Open daily 9am-5:30pm (another branch at the railway station is open daily 6pm-midnight)