This venue from the Hyde and Seek team is named in tribute to apron-clad craftsmen and specializes in retro Western comfort food. The menu competently covers everything from cold cuts, salads and soups to pasta, sandwiches and meat and seafood mains but falls short of greatness.

On the decor front, comparisons with Hyde & Seek are even crueler. While the Ruamrudee bar and restaurant brought New York-style sophistication to town with its paneled wood interior, illustrated menu of tweaked classics (by Ian Kittichai no less) and stiff classic cocktails, Scruffy Apron slips into full-on Disney territory. No amount of bricks and tacky chandeliers can really block out that you’re on the sixth floor of a mall; and what should have been playful just feels fake.

Of course, the signature cocktails (from B299) remain excellent, as do the smoothies (B150-170) and milkshakes (B195). The comfort food theme is best expressed by that little hot dog stand out the front, a neat idea that translates into six tasty combos ranging from a Yankee dog with caramelized onions and homemade salsa (B220) to a decadent chili cheese dog (B280). But not everything is double deck cheeseburgers (B450), chili cheese fries (B295) or smoked pork poutine on fries (B295).

The kitchen demonstrates a lighter touch in its rather flavorful paella (B395) and “Nicoise salad” (B365), which comes with raw tuna with a spicy rub, perfectly poached eggs, plump capers and a pleasantly sour vinaigrette. We also recommend the sea bass (B1,250) covered in slices of fennel and lemon, all of it perfectly baked. Still, there’s so much going on in that menu, it’s hard not to compare each dish to a better version of itself—a particularly glaring issue with the cardboard pizzas (from B320).

Pop in for a Secret Sour (Gold Label Reserve, Red Gluhwein, citrus, lavender, B380) or The Popsicle (Tanqueray gin, lychee liqueur, pineapple syrup, grapefruit, ginger, apple popsicle, B320); look out for the B299/399 net, 2- and 3-course set lunch; just don’t go planning some weep-worthy gourmet meal, here. Corkage charge B1,200

This review took place in November 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.