The swanky Japanese party lounge returns in Sathorn.
The buzz: You might remember Koi from its Sukhumvit days as the place where models went to get free drinks. Now, the California-born brand has taken over what was once the 39th-floor restaurant at Ku De Ta, where it dishes out sometimes-authentic, sometimes fusion-y Japanese comfort food.
The vibe: The long, narrow space retains its sultry, lounge-bar ambience with leather upholstered seats and a deeply polished bar. But Koi hasn’t just changed the logos and given it a new name. The vast, open galley kitchen, that stays, but KDT’s minimal lines now meet with giant red vases and wavy ceiling lights.
The food: First piece of good news: their chef is Japanese, from Kobe to be precise. Hisashi Iwata used to wield the knives back in the restaurant’s Sukhumvit days, and here dishes out the same signature plates as Koi branches around the world (he also worked in the LA and New York spots). He’ll serve you a platter of eight nigiri (fatty tuna and uni both accounted for) at B450, though you’ll want to leave room for the wagyu beef served sizzling hot with buttery truffle potato puree and a bowl of fried rice (B1,300). Bookend the meal with spicy tuna on crisp-edged wedges of rice (B450, starter) and a scoop of mango-coconut ice cream (B160, dessert).
The drinks: Make the most of their Japanese whiskey selection. A glass of the entry-level Black Nikka will cost B350, while Hibiki 17, that’s B2,200. Yikes. If you're ordering the sushi and sashimi, cool Junmai Ginjo sake starts at B690 by the carafe.
Why we’d come back: The sleek vibe and hi-so looking crowd (expect to recognize faces from those Bangkok Post social pages) distract from the fact that Koi actually turns out some comforting plates of food (that beef). Order smart and the bill for two will come in under B4,000 including the premium stuff. Kankanok Wichiantanon
|Address:||Koi, 39/F, Sathorn Square, Narathiwas Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||April, 2018|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sat 6pm-1am; Fri-Sat 6pm-2am|
|Nearest train||BTS Chong Nonsi|
|Reservation recommended, Parking available|
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