The restaurant from Britain's biggest celebrity chef has arrived.
Given that this is also some of the best Italian food we’ve tasted in a Bangkok shopping mall, its lack of customers was also thoroughly undeserving. At prices not far north of Scoozi, this latest addition to a chain of over 60 restaurants worldwide delivers well beyond what you might expect from any brand so thinly stretched.
A margarita pizza (B310) has the billowy crust yet perfectly thin base of dough made using quality flour, albeit with a topping of piquant tomatoes that’s masked under a barrage of parmesan. The casaracce pasta in pork and fennel ragu (B260/340) delivers all the heartwarming, rustic flavors which its food-photo-worthy appearance of earthen browns and golden charred edges promises. Even dodgy-sounding fusion stuff like the “crunchy Italian nachos” (deep-fried pockets of ravioli pasta stuffed with mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan with a spicy tomato dip, B160) have an ordering-from-the-kids-menu kind of charm.
Jamie’s doesn’t pretend to be down-the-line authentic, meaning you’ll also find time-worn bistro stomach fillers suffixed with the word “Italian,” from steak and fries (B720) to a burger (B560) whose two-inch-thick, coarseground pattie oozes with the tangy juices of quality beef—shame that the unmanageable presentation sees it piled up like a ready-to-fall tower of Jenga.
Decor is an equally faddish but well-executed blend of what everyone’s doing—dangling bulbs, exposed pipe work and all the rest of it. Most places, though, you’d be able to get a glass of wine at lunchtime, while here the B225-305 by-the-glass plonk is reserved for dinner guests only (damn sticking to the law). Our tip: make up for it with an extra helping of the formidably gooey molten chocolate praline pudding (B230).