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Bangkok restaurant REVIEW:
Gaggan

  • Gaggan
    Gaggan
  • Gaggan
  • Gaggan
  • Gaggan
  • Gaggan
  • Gaggan

The signage here at Gaggan says “progressive Indian” but that’s an understatement. The food being offered up by chef Gaggan is much more than that. Yes, there is an obvious Indian theme, but labeling his dishes puts preconceptions in your head that should be checked at the door. Everything about the place is so un-Indian: not a gold plate or red drape in sight. Instead, the magic happens in an enchanting white wood house staffed by flirtatious and well-informed staff who add to the pleasantly casual vibe. As for the food, there’s a playfulness in everything served up that’s hard not to like. But all the liquid nitrogen and foam in the world is worth naught if the flavors don’t work, and this is where Gaggan really shines. There’s a very modern gastronomic twist to dishes like the amuse bouche, a spherified raita, but the sweet and salty flavors remind us so strongly of a good papri chaat that presentation is just a bonus, not the backbone of the dish. The same applies to the chicken tikka which comes with a light and aromatic cilantro chutney foam. Or the softshell crab curry which is delicately fried and topped with a tamarind sauce cooked with mustard seeds and curry leaves. There are also plenty of surprises, especially if you go for the blind degustation menu (B1,600 per person)—like the use of freshwater clams in the bowl-lickingly good Konkani curry or the palate-cleansing (and boozy) nitrogen-frozen pina colada. Another highlight has to be washing this all down with the house beer, Inedit , which comes direct from El Bulli, where Gaggan trained (in the laboratory) and got much of his inspiration. There are some minor grumbles: not every dish is transcendent, like the well-cooked but slightly unexciting risotto with Kashmiri morels. And while it seems trite, one more dish or slightly bigger portions would leave us completely satisfied with the set option. Still, those with some food knowledge should definitely venture a la carte, as there is plenty more to choose from, as well as specials when the chef thinks of them. In Gaggan, Bangkok has a restaurant it can be proud of, and in Gaggan Anand, a chef whose talent and enthusiasm makes you fall in love with food again.

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Phone: 02-652-1700
Gaggan, 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., Bangkok, Thailand

Nearest Train:

BTS Chit Lom

Opening Hours:

daily 6pm-midnight

Price Range:

BBBB

Open Since:

January, 2011
Reservation recommended, Parking available
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7.80645
 
 
Gaggan

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