The Fat Tap
The owner of Fatty's brings barbecue and craft beer to Ekkamai.
The buzz: Fatty’s Bar and Diner has long been the go-to spot to get your grease fix. Now, owner and barbecue purist Matthew Fischer brings his deliciously calorific menu to Ekkamai with The Fat Tap—half-barbecue joint, half-craft beer bar, this spot is the real American Dream.
The decor: Laid-back and unfussy, this bar eschews any of the pretention that can come with specialist craft beer places. The decor may not be particularly original—hanging lightbulbs and exposed concrete obviously feature—but that means all focus is on the food and drink. The long wooden bench piled with comfy cushions is a nice touch, especially when the food coma hits and you need a quick time-out.
The food: To long-time fans of Fatty’s the menu here will look pretty familiar, only slightly more BBQ-heavy. The main event is the ribs (B450/half-rack), which are fall-off-the-bone tender and coated in a sticky, smoky glaze. The sides (we chose beans, coleslaw and fries) don’t outshine the ribs by any stretch but are tasty enough for when you need a break from meat. It’s hard to go wrong with deep-fried cheese, as proven by the herby, tangy, dangerously moreish Wisconsin cheese curds (B220). The menu has no illusions of grandeur, instead focusing on honest American grub. One of North America’s greatest drunk food inventions, poutine (B140) essentially boils down to cheesy French fries doused in gravy. Not that we’re complaining.
The drinks: With the 12 beers on tap ranging from 5.6%-8.7%ABV, they may not appeal to craft beer newbies but for people serious about their hops, it’s a dream come true. Try the full-bodied, malty De Molen Vuur & Vlam (B160/half; B275/pint), or the Happy New Beer Black IPA (B130/half; B225/pint), a silky, bitter brew with a powerful aftertaste. For those intimidated by the tap selection, fear not—there’s a whole host of bottled lagers and pale ales, as well as some more exotic IPAs in the fridge. Don’t miss the signature cocktails, either. The Man’Fatt’Han (B320) is the pride and joy, while the Jack Daniel's-based Lynchburg Lemonade (B280) will make you wish you were in a rocking chair on a porch somewhere in the Deep South.
The music: Nostalgic, head-bobbing Americana anthems. A playlist of hits by The Beach Boys and Red Hot Chili Peppers is always going to be a crowd-pleaser, if a tad predictable.
The crowd: Beer-lovers and diners with a hearty appetite, as well as an interesting convergence of Fatty’s die-hards and Ekkamai elite.
Why we’d go back: Good food and good people. Plus, anywhere that serves a Bloody Mary with a rasher of bacon and pickle gets our seal of approval. Keep an eye out for live music nights, tap takeovers and more. Rowan Usher