The buzz: At Charoenkrung's latest rustic looking restaurant, chef Chalee Kader (Surface, Holy Moly, Beer Bridge) partners with Randy Noprapa (Fillets) to bring nose-to-tail cuisine back to the Bangkok dining scene.
The decor: Despite the rusty metal facade, the interior is warm and bright thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows. Orange brickwork and tables made from raw wooden planks dominate the space, keeping the vibe down-to-earth. Just like the many other meat-oriented venues in Bangkok, here you can also see animal haunches hanging in the kitchen-side dry-aging fridge.
The food: Don’t be afraid of the words nose-to-tail. The two chefs present a straightforward selection of dishes that draw from Isaan cuisine as well as our neighboring countries’ food legacies (pho with bone marrow, anyone? B320). OK, so you will find the occasional prime cut imported from Argentina and Akita, but 80 percent of the menu is comprised of local offcuts and entrails. Most of this passes through the hands of Best Country Beef, the butcher that supplies other top local beef restaurants like Arno’s and KRBB. If you’re bold enough, go for the rice noodles and pig’s brain mousse (fatty, crumbly, spongy and a not-too-pricey B220), or the addictive fried tripe in fish sauce (B180). The beautifully rich tom kee lek hang wua (ox tail braised in herb stock and cassia leaves, B290) comes with a salsa-like bolo maka fruit salad on the side. For those who can’t bring themselves to eat entrails, try the grilled ox tongue (B390) served with a chili paste made from momordica, the even more bitter cousin to bitter gourd (nicerthan it sounds). The steamed rice (B25), made from a blend of rice kernels from Surin province, is also some of the most floral we’ve ever tasted.
The drinks: Herb-infused teas like ginger, butterfly pea and lemongrass at B60. Stay tuned for a free-flow ya dong offer that’ll cost B400-500 for two hours, though it still hadn’t launched when we dropped by. Shots of the stuff cost B80 and will also feature in the upcoming cocktail list. Thai lager starts at B120.
Why we'd come back: The nose-to-tail thing was so poorly done the first time round that the term basically became a joke. 100 Mahaseth is actually bold enough to bring it back, focusing on honest, understandable, non-pretentious food.