One of Bangkok’s oldest and most famous Italian restaurants breathes new life at its Sathorn location, but keeps its patented Italian eatery vibe thanks to some old wooden doors, white table cloths and well-kept garden. The menu focuses on that oh-so-important Italian combination—freshness and simplicity—and it works. Just ask the hordes of moneyed Sathorn expats who eat here.
Sorrento is an old timer. And let’s stress the old here. Because this ancient house turned Italian eatery has pretty much left everything untouched since it first opened its old wooden doors over two decades ago. That includes the well-kept garden adorned with exotic flowers, the white cloths used on both the tables and chairs, and the menu—which happens to look like old parchment bound in an executive’s folder. It’s charming in a traditional sense, but unfortunately, while it used to exude a romantic singing-on-a-gondola vibe, it has now become a rather somber affair. These days, the majority of the clientele are those whose families have frequented the place for years, the occasional middle-aged couple or Sathorn suits who are willing to spend a hefty check on a hefty meal and some peace. Indeed the quietude is only interrupted by the occasional live pianist or a rather dated choice of background music. Most of the dishes on the menu have also been retained through the years and as such the key to enjoyment is some inside knowledge of off menu dishes like New Zealand mussels for starters. Instead of ordering it with tomato sauce, tell the incredibly attentive and knowledgeable captain you want it with pesto and garlic. The homemade pesto is a sure-fire winner. Another good choice is the rocket salad with Valencia oranges, sun dried tomatoes and feta cheese. The dressing is the right blend of sour and sweet and they certainly don’t skimp on the fresh imported ingredients. On the whole, Sorrento’s starters make more of an impact than the mains. The lemon snowfish on a bed of grilled shitake mushrooms, asparagus and bell peppers was fresh and generous but the veggies were undercooked and the lemon sauce not nearly enough. You’re better off sticking to their wide range of typical pasta dishes like fettuccini with shrimp in a pink sauce. What will certainly keep you coming back is the desserts, particularly the tiramisu, an item that we reckon even a non-dessert fan would go berserk over. Corkage B800.
|Address:||Sorrento, 66 North Sathorn Rd, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Opening hours:||daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm|
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