• By GROVE
  • | Nov 04, 2016

In a bid to rid Northern Thailand’s hillside regions of opium fields, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej founded what has become known as the Royal Projects in Doi Angkang in 1969. Utilizing the region’s cool climate, His Majesty’s plan for farmers to grow high-value, low-yield native crops like peaches has become a national success story. Almost 50 years later, the valley is a thriving tourist attraction, replete with beautiful gardens and fruit plantations. Here’s everything you need to know to visit this remarkable area of the country. 

Farm Route

Tea Field

Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station is where the Royal Projects first began. On the 2.2-kilometer ring road around the station, you can hop out and visit plantations where they grow various kinds of cool weather fruits such as pears, peaches, strawberries, persimmon, kiwi fruit, pomegranate and blueberries. Don’t miss the Japanese apricot plot, where apricot trees dot a lush green carpet-like field. For flower lovers, this is paradise, especially during Dec-Jan, when the English Rose Garden and Bonsai Garden are in full bloom. When the afternoon arrives, a visit to the Tea Storage is a must, where you can ride by mule around the fields—contact the station in advance at 053-450-107/9, www.angkhangstation.com. The real good news is that now’s the perfect time of year to see the Japanese sakura blossom, which comes out in late November, unlike the praya suekrong (Thai cherry blossom), which blooms in late December or early January. 

Food Route

Ali
 
You don’t need to search far and wide for good food at the Royal Agricultural Station. Head to Angkhang Club for a true taste of the valley with a long list of dishes ranging from hill tribe specialties to produce from the Royal Projects. Their kha moo with man tou (braised pork with fried Chinese bun, B100) is particularly delicious, as is the nam prik Angkhang (B80), a dipping sauce made using the hill tribes’ fermented soy bean paste recipe. Salads are also highly recommended thanks to ingredients picked fresh from the station. Other dining options require a bit of exercise, but if you head to Ban Luang Village you can try the tasty khao soi (curry noodles) made in the Yunnan style at Ali (053-969-431, 081-022-6570). The soup here is clearer and not as thick as the typical Northern version. Their salapao (stuffed Chinese bun) with black bean is an adventurous dessert you have to try. 
 

Cultural Route

Nor Lae Village
 
There are three main villages where visitors can get a glimpse of the local hill tribe culture, the most popular being Nor Lae village. The villagers belong to the Palong or Dara-ang tribes and are the main people responsible for growing the produce at Angkhang station.  The Nor Lae military base sits on the hill above the village, providing another panoramic view of Myanmar’s mountains. Next stop, Khob Dong village's, home to the Mu Ser Dam tribe who live here in bamboo houses dotting the hill. The slightly more developed Ban Luang village, meanwhile, is a Yunnan settlement to which a lot of Chinese migrated during WWII.

Sunrise Route

Military Base
 
Military Base

There are many spots to catch the sunrise, the easiest to reach being the Angkhang Military Base, near the camping point on the way to Nor Lae village. Choose from the wooden terrace at the military compound or the small hill at the camping point.  After watching the sun come up, stretch your legs on the 30-minute Nor Lae trekking route, which offers great views of the mountains over in Myanmar. Another perfect way to spend the morning is by paying a visit to the strawberry fields and tea fields of the 2000 Plantation—nothing like a view of a misty mountainside to start the day.  You can also spot mountains carpeted with rhododendron some 4.5 kilometers from the station. 

Strawberry Fields

Essentials

Where to stay

Angkhang Station Guesthouse 
Cozy accommodation is offered on-site at the station for two to five people per room. 053-450-107/9, www.angkhangstation.com
 

Angkhang Nature Resort 

Owned by the Royal Project Foundation but run by hoteliers, the resort sits in front of the station. As the weather gets pretty cold in the winter, the hotel is equipped with electric blankets. Rates start from B3,000 for a mountain view room and B3,500 for a garden view. 053-450-110, bit.ly/16nQ6MH
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