Wat Traimit
See & Do
Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique atmosphere. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience, head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.
Eat
Eiah-Sae
Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more.
Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to
Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok present the likes of steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian community, and
Royal India (392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother style—plenty of cream and ghee. The area’s old-school tea and coffee houses are also not to be missed. The 87-year-old
Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee laced with condensed milk alongside charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices.
Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075) meanwhile, specializes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region. Looking for something a little more modern? Head to the 100-year-old shophouses home to
80/20, a Thai restaurant that serves up contemporary dishes with 80 percent of the ingredients sourced locally.
Drink
Ba Hao
A recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses in the area.
El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, 086-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture and old posters. The kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and bocadillos (sandwiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in town,
Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784), where a collection of artsists, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street,
23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, 086-264-4471) has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between ‘90s Britpop and reggae, while
Tep Bar (see below) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd. For more drinks with a twist, head to
Ba Hao (8 Soi Nana), a laid-back Chinese-themed bar whose signature cocktails are infused with herbs like ginseng and five spice. Or head up to the 25th floor of the
Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.
Nightlife Highlight
Located in the crumbling streets of the up-and-coming Charoenkrung area, this restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Here, you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen specializing in Thai tapas (and a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.
02 69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong
Chinatown’s Top Street-Food Stalls
Guay Tiew Kua Gai
This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.
Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-1am
Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas
Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has specialized in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.
Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am
Kuay Jub Nai Ek
This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and
intestines served in peppery soup.
Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late
T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood
Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.
Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am
