Geoffrey Bawa (1919-2003) is Sri Lanka’s foremost architect, and often considered a founding father of “tropical modernism.” When it comes to resorts, in particular, it’s hard to exaggerate his importance. He took elements of vernacular architecture—such as overhanging pitched roofs—and combined them with modernist architecture—an absence of decorative elements combined with austere geometric forms. Our region’s leading resort architects, Australian Kerry Hill and American Ed Tuttle, would later bring their own contributions to tropical modernism through a series of luxury resorts, throughout Southeast Asia, such as Tuttle’s Aman Puri (1988) and Hill’s Bali Hyatt (1973). But Bawa’s The Bentota Beach Hotel is from 1968 (and he was some 20 years older than Tuttle and Hill), making him a kind of father to the whole movement. If you’re headed to Sri Lanka, here are some of the master’s buildings you can’t afford to miss.

The Gallery Cafe

Charming inner courtyards create a series of relaxing spaces around Bawa’s former offices. Today, apart from serving cocktails and pastries (at five-star hotel prices), it’s also a way to spot Colombo’s beautiful people. 2 Alfred House Rd, Colombo, +94 (0)11 2 582162.

Number 11

The former home of Geoffrey Bawa is now open to the public. In keeping with tropical modernism, it blends unadorned white walls with carefully crafted wood latticework. It’s intimate and beautifully decorated with antiques from around the world. Make sure you don’t miss it: there’s no sign on the door and it just looks closed at all times. Visits by appointment, 9am-4pm, Mon-Fri, +94 (0)11 433 7335. No 11. 33rd Lane, Colombo. Entry Rs1,000.

Heritance Kandalama

Situated near the breathtaking Sigiriya rock fortress, in Dambulla, this hotel is considered Bawa’s masterpiece. It clings to the side of a rocky cliff and is so overrun by vegetation as to almost disappear. Once inside, though, the views are sweeping and uncluttered, thanks to vast open spaces and a simple structure. The rooms are opulent and cozy, fitted out with a generous use of tropical woods and large Jacuzzis overlooking the reservoir down below. Rooms from B4,300. www.heritancehotels.com/kandalama

Jetwing Lighthouse

Situated on the beach near the charming former colonial outpost of Galle, this resort hotel manages to strike a perfect balance between the warmth of Sri Lankan vernacular and the minimalism of modernist architecture. With the ocean-swept rocks at the front, the panoramic sea views, and the epic battle sculpture twisting up the grand staircase, there’s also an air of real drama to the place. Rates from B10,000. www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglighthouse

Lunuganga

This was Geoffrey Bawa’s country home and now functions as a charming boutique hotel with only six pavilions dotted around the sprawling park. Nightly stays are around US$250 (B7,500) but you can simply swing by for a visit. Lunuganga is 60km south of Colombo and 3km from the coastal resort town of Bentota. Visits by appointment, 9am-5pm, daily. +94 (0) 3442 87056. Entry Rs700. 
 

Essentials

VISA
You’ll need an ETA (Eletronic Travel Authorization) for most nationalities. Apply online at www.eta.gov.lk. US$30 (roughly B1,000) per person.
 
CURRENCY
Rs1 (Sri Lankan Rupee) = B0.25
 
FLIGHTS
Thai Airways flies to Colombo 5 times a week, from B14,120 for a round-trip.
Sri Lankan Airlines offers a daily flight between Bangkok and Colombo at about B9,200 for a round-trip. 
 
GETTING AROUND
You’ll need a driver. Go through a tour agent and they can plan the whole trip for you. We highly recommend www.acmetravels.com.