1. GO RAW

Ben says, “I try to avoid stretch denim; I prefer Japanese denim made in the old style. I use selvedge denim, which has a clean edge that will never unravel.” The edge comes in many colors and can be seen on the out seam of an upturned cuff. Ben uses raw denim, as each customer will wear in their jeans in their own way, creating the desirable fade effect.

2. Show Your EDGE

If you don’t like rolling the cuffs of your pants, look for cool features like a coin pocket showing off a few millimeters of selvedge.

3. Get Rivetted

Apart from denim, rivets are one of jeans’ most distinctive features, but pay attention to the back pockets. Ben’s process hides the rivets, otherwise you’ll scratch your (or your friends’) designer furniture. Some jeans simply don’t use rivets on the back. Ben’s jeans also feature the option of an extra rivet right at the crotch, a personal—and very classic—touch, as Levi’s jeans abandoned the crotch rivet during WWII, due to rationing.

4. Button Up

The fly is then formed, and button holes are created using zigzag chain stitching, and finished by being punched open by hand. “People chose buttons because it complements the selvedge. Buttons were how it used to be.”

5. Black is the new yellow

The color of the thread used to stitch is up to the customer, but Ben says “Black stitching dresses up a jean, but the most important part is just wearing it simple. It’s all about the hang.”

6. Belting Out

Belt loops are made by using a small piece of rope tucked inside a swatch of denim and sewed shut. The rope gives the belt loops some volume. On better jeans, you can feel this little piece of string through the denim.

Essentials

Ben Viapiana. Sukhumvit 101, BTS Punnawiti. http://viapiana.ca/
Pronto. Siam Square Soi 2, 02-251-7448. www.prontodenim.com
Out Cast. 2/F, Room 204, Siam Square Soi 1, hkfbkk@gmail.com
Denim Corner. 3/F, Central Chidlom, 02-793-7777. www.central.co.th