The rainy season is coming so it’s time to seek out somtam served under cover. Somtum Der (5/5 Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., 02-632-4499, 084-764-4291) does just that, without compromising on authentic Isaan flavors. And at least one partner (also involved in Minibar Royale) is from Khon Kaen. Dishes include the recommended moo rong hai (grilled pork with jaew), tum mua (spicy mixed vegetable salad), meang pla tub tim (grilled mango fish with Vietnamese-style sauce served with boiled egg) and the hard-to-find jaew bong (fermented fish paste).