When Thai fine dining isn’t toned down for tourists, it’s either very rustic (Nahm, Bo.lan) or bordering on bio technology (Sra Bua). Chef Matt Dowdell at Panorama (23/F, Crown Plaza, 952 Rama 4 Rd., 02-632-9000) is trying something a little different, though. He has developed a seven-course menu that puts twists on old classics (think foie gras on duck laarb), and serves dishes in succession, yet preserves a very recognizable Thainess to each dish. These dinners (B1,500 through Apr, or B2,500 with wine pairings on Mar 16, 17 and 18) also come with a host of options for nearly each course, so that you can choose if you’d rather experiment with the condensed-milk custard tom yam or play it safe with an eggplant salad.