The buzz: Ishikawa Motonobu is a third-generation fish wholesaler whose restaurant in the outer market of Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market is practically a shrine to raw fish, drawing foodie pilgrims from the world over. With his Bangkok branch, the city’s sushi lovers have a new and reasonably-priced omakase-sushi destination to add to their list of favorites.
The decor: A slick interpretation of the minimalist style of many omakase restaurants. The walls are done in imposing black granite, an effect softened by the warm wood and white marble of the bar area, which seats up to 12. Come during the day and the space is alive with natural light from the glass wall behind the bar. A la carte diners are seated in the quiet and casual back rooms, which acommodate up to 32.
The food: The sashimi rice bowl (B1,280), nicknamed “the jewelry box” by the chef, comes with a wealth of tuna, salmon roe, sea urchin and golden eye snapper, all topped with a single plump shrimp. The sashimi sets are served on a slab of pink Himalayan rock salt with wedges of kabosu (a citrus fruit). The lunch omakase (B1,800) gets you 10 Edo-style pieces of sushi while the Aozora omakase comes with five substantial courses and a dessert (B3,300).
The drinks: The by-the-glass selection of umeshu and sake won’t disappoint. The refined Kubota Manjyu sake from Niigata province is a hefty B620, but more affordable options include umeshu and honjozo sake for B225. There’s also a selection of beer, wine, whiskey and gin.
Why we’d come back: Clearly, the chefs here know their trade, serving up sushi with a quiet confidence that disguises the true sophistication of the preparation. With a Tsukiji Market wholesaler behind the venture, you can also rest assured that you’re only getting the finest, freshest ingredients. Note: Reservations are a must, even for a la carte. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon