So will this place get you in the mood? Well, while it conjures up some definite affection, it never quite reaches the heights of full-blown love. That’s our response to this high-end sushi bar that takes its style guide from 1960s China, while getting its culinary inspiration from contemporary Japan. It mostly works, but it’s not always a perfect marriage. The lofty space is lovely, with soft lighting and cute floral sofas giving it a friendly intimate vibe, a vibe helped by the garrulous chefs manning the central sushi bar. Just don’t look too closely, or you’ll realize that you’re actually just in a giant greenhouse. We also get a little confused giving our order for a sushi set to someone dressed like one of Chairman Mao’s revolutionary workers, even if their speed and efficiency would make the great leader proud. The food also tries to mix things up a bit, blending standard sushi and sashimi options with a more intriguing choice of signature maki rolls. Of these, it is the more traditional offerings that work better. The soft shell crab tempura has a light, crispy batter, the spicy tuna is suitably spicy and fatty, while the agedashi tofu is wonderfully creamy. Perhaps most importantly, the sushi and sashimi are both fresh and flavorsome. The downside, is that not all the signature dishes live up to their tantalizing names. Take the Guilty but Happy, which includes tempura, ebiko, cream cheese and red sauce. It looks great but an excess of sauces means it tastes overly sweet. The Californian roll on the other hand disappoints due to a lack of creaminess in the cheese—­­­­­­­­­perhaps the sub-arctic conditions are to blame. As well as the freezing temperatures, we could also do without the terrible CD rendition of happy birthday on our last visit. Despite these missteps, though, there is still plenty to admire: it’s a pleasant and relaxing change from the normal zen minimalism of Japanese joints; even with the service charge prices are not outrageous; and, where else can you enjoy a Hoegaarden with your marinated sting ray fin (ehire aburi B160)? So while we haven’t fallen completely head over heels we’re definitely in the mood to return.