Sukhumvit Soi 49 welcomes a farm-to-table Mediterranean restaurant.
The buzz: A restaurant specializing in wild-caught game has landed among the ranks of bars and eateries on Sukhumvit Soi 49. Turkish chef Mehmet Semet’s experience in Norway’s kitchens shines through in a protein-heavy menu.
The decor: Brace yourself for the maximalist decor, which we’ll call upscale hunting lodge for the many animal trophies and statues that crowd the glossy interior. Paintings of ducks (the namesake mallard) add some color to inside’s gentlemanly mix of dark woods and exposed brickwork, while a sleek, winding bar is a prime spot for people watching, libation in hand. Outside a tree-hugged terrace gives a convincing impression of dining in the woods.
The food: Exotic game is the star. Start off with the mallard terrine (B320), whose coarse texture is enhanced by the accompanying toasted pistachios. Also included in the platter are dates braised in red wine, parma ham and whole grain mustard. Seasoned with a hint of cumin and cinnamon, the wild boar meatballs (B430) make a hefty meal, served in a cast-iron skillet with a creamy sage sauce, shallots, Brussel sprouts and baked baby potatoes. If you’re not quite ready to venture into the wild meats, you can always try the garlic-and-rosemary-marinated grilled half-chicken (B390) served with shitake mushrooms and chimichurri sauce. Save room for dessert, as these crisp, airy churros (B220) with chili-chocolate sauce and blueberry yogurt ice cream are not to be missed.
The drinks: Cocktails take an accessibly fruity route, as in The El Toro (B240), which mixes aged rum, passion fruit, lime and cherry liqueur, or the Crazy Mango (B260), an easygoing blend of vodka, lime, cane sugar, chili and mango. As befits the log-cabin surrounds there’s also a nice lineup of whiskey, starting at B240 for a glass of Glenlivet 12 Year Old and B420 for the Yamazaki Single Malt.
Why we’d go back: The diverse range of protein on offer paired with the heavenly churros make Mallard a tempting proposition. Megan Leon