The answer to Suan Phlu's brunch prayers.
The buzz: New Yorker-Bangladeshi couple Porag and Lillian Alam’s much-loved Sukhumvit bakery opens a second branch bringing crusty, artisan breads and gooey sandwiches to eclectic Suan Phlu.
The decor: This second location captures the open and welcoming spirit of the original with warm wood accents, art-deco wall ornaments and an emphasis on the pastry case, which shows off the day’s baked goods. As with all excellent cafes, the place is primed for people watching, whether from the street-side window seat or a table on the mezzanine balcony.
The food: The fare here is testimony to head baker Porag Alam’s dedication to his craft. He has the flour especially milled to his requirements, which is evident in the chewy-crusty sourdoughs, flaky croissants and bagels that would do Brooklyn proud. All the old favorites are here too, like the Phet Mak Mak sourdough (B250), which is made with kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and pickled jalapenos. The onion bialys (a sort of baked-not-boiled, prototype bagel, B70) and the NYP sandwich (Sloane’s beef pastrami, whole grain mustard, pickles and cheddar cheese, B400) reference the couple’s New York days. Newcomers will want to try the signature Cubano sandwich, a toasted panini of house-made belly porchetta, smoked bacon, ham, jalapeno, dijon, pickles and cheddar. And avocado toast has finally met its match in the Guaca Sandwich (B400), which won’t leave you feeling guilty for eating that frosted Berliner (B75).
The drinks: The usual suspects are all on the board, but for an extra boost, try Wham! (B120): brewed coffee, double espresso and milk foam. Get your chocolate fix with the hot or iced Chocolate Darkness (B120), which is bittersweet and rich. Looking for something to beat the heat? Go for the fresh squeezed lemonade (B120) or the fresh squeezed tangerine juice (B100) that has no additives or sugar.
Why we’d come back: Laid-back vibe, bustling location and down to earth good food. Look out for a kitchen expansion that will open up the world of light dinners to lucky Suan Phlu regulars. Megan Leon
|Address:||Holey Kitchen, 39/17 Soi Suanphlu, Suanphlu Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Fri 7am-6pm; Sat-Sun 7am-7pm|
|Nearest train||BTS Sala Daeng|
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