Like the best gossip there’s much to enjoy about this bistro/bar: it’s fun, a little flirty and can be very satisfying. But like most rumors there’s also a bit of a mixed message going on. Brought to us by the people behind pre-club hotspot Oskar, including former D’Sens chef Julien Lavigne, Gossip looks to create a similar sexy and sophisticated bistro vibe in the heart of Thonglor. We’re not sure the space works quite as well as its Soi 11 counterpart, tucked as it is down a dead-end soi, but on the plus side it does have a sizeable outdoor terrace. Our biggest gripe with Gossip, though, one Oskar better avoids, is that the pop art inspired interiors, which mix raw cement with iconic quotes, a large central bar, club soundtrack and dim lighting, all rather distract from the high quality of the bistro dishes on offer. Sure, it’s a brief menu—and one that features comforting snack options like the arancini (B95), moreish crispy balls of rice with a gooey cheese center served with a piquant sauce, and the slightly dry prawn bites with kaffir lime dip (B130)—but there’s depth as well. You wouldn’t find salads like the gorgonzola croquettes on bed of iceberg lettuce (B195) on many bar menus—even if the croquettes don’t add much to a light and zingy citrus-inspired salad that’s packed with surprises like chopped walnut and apple. And if you look past the bar food skewers then you can find some real treats in the mains and pasta dishes. The slow-cooked chicken (B330) revels in its North African influences, from the spicy gravy to the tagine it comes served in. The result is a comforting but complex stew packed with juicy, fall-off-the-bone aromatic chicken and a range of perfectly cooked veggies. Served wrapped in paper, there’s also a touch of art in the simple steamed cod with ratatouille (B420) thanks to the quality of the ingredients which shine through in the meaty fish and the flavorful mix of peppers and eggplant. It seems safe, but it’s certainly more elevated than most bistros would dare try. That’s equally true with the specials, which on our last visit included the bacon and mussels spinach risotto (B320), an interesting variation on a standard that was creamy and light. Service, too, is a step above that found in most other Bangkok bistros, even if its attentiveness can border on over-eager; and there’s also a very good affordable wine list. We’ll definitely come back, but we’ll probably opt for the quieter terrace or the more intimate second floor where the interesting and well-executed dishes can truly take center stage. Corkage charge B600 (wine) and B1,200 (liquor).
|Address:||Gossip, Thonglor Soi 15, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||November, 2012|
|Opening hours:||daily 4pm-midnight|
|Report a correction|