Even though Genji is more than 30 years old now, the renovation three years ago has brought more life to the place—traditional, earthy and cozy while the kitchen’s mission turns to traditional cuisine. The new menu includes the meaty wagyu houba yake (marbled beef cooked on a leaf, B1,000) and homemade mineoka tofu with taraba crab (pudding made with heavy cream and Japanese kudzu root starch, B400). Our favorite still lies to the old dish like thekamo nanban soba with onsen egg, mushroom and truffle essence (B600)—the noodles are homemade and the broth is very refreshing. The small terrace is a lovely spot if you can live without air-con.