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Fai Sor Kam is doing decent Thai food in a cutesy Lanna-style setting. But like most mall restaurants, Fai Sor Kam is also more expensive, less charming and not as tasty as many of its non-mall counterparts. Dubbed an “East meets West restaurant” doing “Thai and Italian food,” Fai Sor Kam’s long menu is actually better than it sounds. Mostly Thai, it emphasizes Northern dishes. Design-wise, the Lanna theme is supported by an elaborate collection of dark wood furniture, giant lion sculptures and a craftsy gift shop filled with silk pillows and colorful candles. Alas, Paragon’s dubiously named Food Passage remains a windowless neon-lit hall where Fai Sor Kam’s cringe-worthy popsanova competes with the mall’s own soundtrack. As for the food, our main complaint is that too many dishes lack flavor, although it’s never quite for the same reason. The somtam kung, which comes with three minuscule shrimps for B140, is flavored with sugar and lime; garlic, fish sauce and chili all but absent. The gaeng hang lae (Burmese-style pork curry, B180), on the other hand, is lacking in sweetness, and its ginger is also surprisingly tasteless. The Northern sausage (B120) is oily without having a sufficiently herbal kick. And even the nam prik ong (B120) tastes of ground pork and tomato, but not much else. Where’s the garlic, chili and shrimp paste? Where is the fresh coriander topping? We’d probably go back to Fai Sor Kam for a weekday lunch, though, when much more reasonable prices (B119 for three small sides, rice and a drink, Mon-Fri 10:30am-4:30pm) make it more appealing. And we have had luck with a couple of dishes. The gaeng ho (mixed vegetables, noodles and pork stir-fry, B150) really tastes like the originally inspiration of this dish—reheated leftovers—and we mean that in the best of ways. The bamboo shoot salad with crab sauce and chili paste (B140), too, is a pungent, powerful dish that hits all the right notes. The nam prik noom (green chili relish, B120) is also very fresh and tasty. Finally, service is excellent. A good weekday lunch spot, Fai Sor Kam would have to weed out its less impressive dishes for us to wholeheartedly recommend paying for its a la carte prices. Corkage charge B200.
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