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Bangkok restaurant REVIEW:
Canvas

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The buzz: The team from Thonglor speakeasy Rabbit Hole presents creative locavore flavors at Bangkok’s most exciting new kitchen. 
 
The decor: The black and white tiles and French windows say upscale bistro, though there’s a clear modern edge to the huge open kitchen and bar-seating format. Local touches come in the form of beautiful plates created by Bangkok ceramics studio Lamunlamai. The same interior team that did Rabbit Hole, Paradigm Shift, have this time produced a more casual ambience, complete with natural light and a welcoming little garden. 
 
The food: Texas-hailing chef Riley Sanders (whose resume features a stint at Chicago's now-closed L20, a job as a private chef on a yacht in Miami and a whole lot of traveling) heads a kitchen that paints with the flavors of Thailand as inspired by world cuisine. In order to create something unique to Bangkok, local ingredients and inventive cooking techniques combine, resulting in dishes like Mekong catfish (B660) caramelized with tamarind tare sauce in the same way the Japanese glaze unagi (freshwater eel). Served alongside it are eel-glazed, peeled local eggplant, grapes, fermented coconut sauce and a second sauce made from local herbs. He also makes his own version of Mexican mole sauce using 30 local spices to go with coconut oil-poached octopus (B680) as well as some even crazier creations, like the intense fried shrimps (B240) coated with shrimp powder batter and served with shrimp paste alongside other condiments. His artistic soul also shines in the refreshing mud crab and lotus dish (B900), in which a giant portion of crab meat sits in a conceptual “swamp” with lotus stems and lotus root chips. We also love the intense chestnut cakes cooked in a kanom krok pan (B340). 
 
The drinks: Head bartender Naphat “Yod” Natchachon keeps standards on a par with Rabbit Hole while complementing the local flavors of the restaurant. Sooth Your Soul (B450) utilizes a rare Chiang Mai leaf called bai nium which our grandparents used to burn and eat with Hong Thong Rum back in the day. Here they infuse the leaves with coffee beans in cognac, mix that with sweet vermouth then serve it with star anise smoke. Tropical botanicals also star in the Canvas Martini (B450): gin, aloe vera vinegar, dry vermouth, ylang-ylang flowers, black olive and coriander flower. 
 
Why you should care: The kitchen’s high ambition shines through on the plate and approaches local products with courage. 
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Phone: 099-614-1158
Canvas, 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), Bangkok, Thailand

Nearest Train:

BTS Thong Lo

Opening Hours:

Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-12:30pm

Open Since:

April, 2017
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6.71429
 
 
Canvas

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