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Bangkok restaurant REVIEW:
Brasserie Cordonnier

  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier
  • Brasserie Cordonnier

The buzz: Remember when French dining looked like snails, beef tartare and bowls of onion soup spewing drips of cheese down their side? Soho Hospitality (see Above Eleven, Charcoal and Havana Social) is bringing those days back with this classic Parisian bistro on Soi 11.

The decor: What looks strictly conventional from the outside—royal blue roll-out awning, wicker chairs and privet hedges—feels friendly and welcoming inside thanks to warm, dim lighting and comfy seating nooks. The name, Cordonnier, means cobbler in French, hence the shoemaking equipment scattered about the place.
 
The food: French chef Clement Hernandez (previously a sous chef at J’aime) rolls out classic brasserie dishes like cheesy onion soup (B280), Burgundy garlic butter snails (B390) and beef bourguignon (B520). It’s all wonderfully conventional, but he’s not afraid of reinventing the odd dish, either. The ratatouille gets a handful of sundried tomatoes and vinegar-pickled tomatoes for punchier flavors, while his lobster bisque features both sweet and baby corn for a smoother texture. Just as silky is his crispy confit pork belly (B420), in which the fat gets removed and replaced with onion puree. Vegetarians can content themselves with a mushroom casserole (B420) and the occasional pasta dish.
 
The drinks: Italian group mixologist Davide Sambo’s drinks take inspiration from French art, fashion and music. Love From Monet (B350) elevates the classic Boulevardier (rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Campari) with a twist of Cynar (artichoke liquor), paying homage to the Impressionist painter by letting you paint the rim of your glass with a lemon-thyme paste. Sole Rouge (B380), meanwhile, daintily replicates Christian Louboutin’s iconic red-soled heels with a layering of raspberry eau de vie at the base, topped with prosecco, vodka, D.O.M. Benedictine (a herbal liqueur), Chartreuse and orange juice.
 
Why we’d come back: While Oskar might appear to have this street’s French scene sewn up, Brasserie Cordonnier delivers something that feels less like a bar and somewhere you’d take the family. There’s more coming, too—a third-story drinking den with details to be announced. Natcha Sanguankiattichai and Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
 
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Phone: 094-970-8599
Brasserie Cordonnier, 33/30 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok, Thailand

Nearest Train:

BTS Nana

Opening Hours:

daily 6pm-midnight

Cuisine:

French

Open Since:

June, 2017
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Brasserie Cordonnier

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