It may seem silly to try and do at home what a master chef already does at his now open Bangkok restaurant. But in talking with Chef Thompson about the deceptively simple pad tua kab pla meuk, we discovered that attention to detail can have transformative effects. In this case, the key is to temper the wok. That is, before you even begin to cook, heat an empty wok, let it cool, then wash it and dry it. Not only does this prevent sticking, it gives the dish the smokey aroma that makes it complex and great.

Ingredients

* 3 teaspoons peeled Thai garlic
* pinch of salt
* white sesame oil
* ½ cup cleaned sugar snap peas
* 180 g squid, cleaned but not skinned and scored
* ½ cup chicken stock
* 1 teaspoon squid ink
* 1 tablespoon fish sauce
* pinch of white sugar
* large pinch of ground white pepper
* rendered pork fat (optional)

Procedure

Before you begin cooking, prepare by pounding a coarse paste with the garlic and salt. Temper the wok (see above).

1. Over a medium heat, add the oil then the squid. Fry for a moment until the squid beings to curl and then add the garlic paste.
2. Add the drained snap peas. Continue to fry for a moment.
3. Moisten with the stock, add the squid ink, then season with the fish sauce, sugar and pepper.
4. Finish by adding the pork fat.

Essentials

For more recipes by David Thompson, check out his books: Thai Food (B1,395) and Thai Street Food (B2,295 at Asia Books, www.asiabooks.com)