The latest on the BMA versus TAT power struggle over our soup bowls.
Jan 24, 2008|
All through 2007, we stuffed ourselves in our unrelenting quest to find the best food in the city. The result is here: a compilation of our notes, reviews and memorable food moments randomly listed from 1 to 100. Just to be on the safe side, we also spoke to our network of food connoisseurs and went back to some places we had only hazy recollections of. Still, this list remains subjective, and far from extensive—Bangkok is one big city, particularly when it comes to food. Of course, your top 100 might not be the same as ours. We invite you to email us your suggestions at email@example.com, or post your comments on our website at www.bkmagazine.com/dining. Now, with a higher level of cholesterol and a bigger belly, we proudly present you a year’s worth of lip-smacking finger-licking labor. Enjoy!
We would like to keep this dark, stark izakaya to ourselves, but our integrity forces us to reveal that its “grilled” saba (B350) is in a league of its own. Push back from your table as your waitress puts a blowtorch to the mackerel, carbonizing it to a golden crisp. Squirt of lime, two small heaps of pickled ginger and wasabi, and it’s time to let your mouth be dazzled.
33/5 Sukhumvit Soi 11, BTS Nana, 02-254-5885. Open daily 5:30pm-1am.
2. Sor Roong Roj
Regulars know that the uncle and auntie running this shop fight all day long with a few breaks to whip up some mean poultry. The 45-year-old shop’s specialty: kuay tiew ped palo (B35, noodles with duck braised in Chinese spices).
141-3 Nakornsawan Soi 6, Nang Leong Market, 02-629-9800, www.sorroongroj.com. Open daily 9am-4pm.
3. Jae Wa-Jae Yong Hainanese noodles
Here, two sisters dish out comforting bowls of Hainanese noodles (B35-40). Firm udon-like noodles, tender chunks of braised beef, pickled cabbage and braised bamboo shoots get drenched in a thick sauce loaded on peanuts and white sesame. Noodlistic perfection.
Soi Lukluang 8, Sapan Khao, 02-281-0444, 08-6820-7890, 08-1832-1341. Open daily 5-11pm.
4. Charoensang Silom
The popularity of the delicious braised pork knuckles at this long-standing shop goes well beyond its unassuming location. Get there early and armed with patience.
Charoen Krung Soi 49 (Soi Troktoh), in a small soi opposite Lerdsin Hospital, 02-234-4602, 02-234-8036. Open daily 10am-1pm.
5. Khaotom Kraduk Muu Chaloemburi
The old grandpa running this joint treats his customers with the same loving attention he bestows on his khaotom kraduk muu (boiled rice with pork bone, B30 or B40 with an egg).
Charoen Krung Rd., next to Lord Chong Singapore, 08-9770-9517. Open dailynoon-9pm.
6. Lord Chong Singapore
Next door from #5, more old men can be found trying to beat the heat with light green lord chong noodles bathed in fragrant coconut milk and topped with shaved ice (B15).
680-682 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm.
7. Pad Thai Loong Pha
Compared to the adjacent pad thai store, Pad Thai Loong Pha is smaller but the al dente chan noodles, cooked on a charcoal-stove, are pure old-fashioned goodness. B30-60.
Pratu Phi, Mahachai Rd., 02-621-0082. Open daily 10-2am.
8. Samong Moo Thai Tham
If pork, liver and intestines are part of your diet, head to this hole-in-the-wall to try some pig brain, deep-fried fish skin and taro balls served kao lao-style in peppery clear broth (B70).
28/1 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-221-7612. Open Mon-Sat 7am-2pm.
9. Si Morakot
Si Morakot’s claim to fame is its khao muu daeng (B25)—thick slices of roast pork served with a half-boiled egg and rich sauce. Its special version (B60) is huge. Trust us, you won’t need dessert.
80-82 Soi Sukorn, Trimitr Rd., 08-1567-9006, 08-1816-9774. Open daily 11am-8pm.
10. Ae Seafood
This grungy, steamy hot streetside shophouse doesn’t need to be pretty thanks to fresh catches at ridiculously low prices (B35-220). Our favorites are the succulent salt-coated roasted sea bass and peppery goong ob wunsen (prawns baked in a pot with glass noodles).
Chulalongkorn Soi 14, 08-1619-1924. Open daily 6-11pm.
11. Natthaporn Ice Cream
This half-cenury-old ice cream parlor is a sure bet for light and refreshing Thai-style frozen treats (B15). Make sure you order a slice of cake, too.
94 Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm.
12. Stir-fried Chicken Noodles Yaowarat
At this hole-in-the-wall, it’s first-come-first-served, and the grumpy auntie makes sure everyone at the table gets at least one bowl of kuay tiew kua kai (B30-50). Don’t even think about sharing. And why would you? Her chicken noodles, cooked on a small brass pan, are amazing.
Trok Issaranuphap, Yaowarat. Open daily 8pm-1am.
13. Kuay Jub Nai Lek Auan
Get ready… Fight! Nai Lek Auan’s rice noodles with pork entrails and crispy muu krob in fragrant, peppery broth are so good that even big-hair ladies will elbow past university students to get their bowl (B30).
In front of the Old Market, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-3450, 08-1611-6920. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am.
Gianni Favro’s restaurant is a long-standing favorite for Italian fine dining in the capital. But Gianni’s sous-vide Wagyu beef cheeks and toothsome ravioli filled with savory cod go beyond tradition and offer formerly unthinkable flavors and freshness.
34/1 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., BTS Chit Lom, 02-252-1619. Open daily 10am-2:30pm, 6-11pm.
15. Somboon Pochana
Despite its cramped setting and unsmiling servers, Somboon Pochana has us addicted to is famous yellow curry crab (starting at B220). The fresh meaty crab soaked in luscious curry is so delicious we practically lick our plate clean. Note: Cash only.
169/7-12 Surawong Rd., 02-233-3104, www.somboonseafood.com. Open daily 4-11pm). You can try its three other outlets: Bantadthong (02-216-4203), Ratchada (02-692-6850/-3) and Bangna (02-746-6850).
16. Mon Nom Sod
This venerable café is overflowing with a crowd vying for tender tasty milk, toasts and steamed bread with sangkhaya. It’s difficult to get a seat and when you do, you can’t occupy it for too long before the servers give you an evil look.
160/2-3 Dinsor Rd., opposite Bangkok City Hall, 02-224-1989. Open daily 2pm-midnight.
17. Nom Joe
Those who have already tried Mon Nom Sod and are looking for a more relaxed atmosphere and a more welcoming service should come here. Toasts are served with more hearty meals like congee and fresh spring rolls.
441 Tanao Rd. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm.
18. Rot Dee Det
Portions are tiny but the flavorful beef noodles and khao kaeng side dishes (like spicy stir-fried meat balls and chicken stew) are why nicer restaurants come and go but Rot Dee Det remains one of Siam Square’s longest standing eateries.
Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., Open daily 11am-9pm.
Over 30 flavors of frozen cocktail delights infused with five percent alcohol.
G/F, The Urban Kitchen, Erawan Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-0232, www.amaltery.com. Open daily 10am-10pm.
20. Coffee Beans by Dao
Prices are steep (B100 up) but Dao’s legendary white choc’ cheesecake, New York cheesecake and flourless chocolate cake are totally worth your money—and the time you will need to spend on a treadmill burning them off.
20/12-15, Soi Ruamrudee, Ploenchit Rd., 02-254-7117/-9. Open daily 10am-10pm.
21. Kwang Sawasdee
The shophouse eatery whips up various Bambi specialties from stir-fried venison with black pepper (B180) to Chinese herbal deer soup (B75).
336/3 Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-1773. Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
22. Kuay Tiew Lui Suan Khun Thip
Khun Thip’s famous kuay tiew lui suan (fresh spring rolls stuffed with crisp greens and minced pork) make a fabulous light meal. To avoid lines, call her in advance before dropping by. B5 per roll or B25, B50, B100 per box.
Talad Loong Perm, behind Thai Airways headquarters, Vipawadee Rangsit Soi 22, 08-6603-4727, 08-4005-5420. Open Mon-Sat 7:30am-3pm.
23. Kuay Tiew Kae (Sum Silom)
Also known as Kuay Tiew Kae Assum, this non-descript street stall serves noodles with firm fish balls, deep-fried and steamed pork balls and tofu balls stuffed with minced pork that impresses—or so goes the rumor—even some royal bloods.
Next to Assumption College, Charoen Krung Soi 49, 08-9476-2241. Open daily 8am-4pm.
24. Xuan Mai
At this no-frills eatery, an FBI-agent-turned-chef surprises gourmands with her home-style Vietnamese cooking and the city’s best pho.
32 Sukhumvit Soi13, 02-251-8389. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-midnight.
25. Sukiyaki Eiw Hua (1955)
The grandpa sukiyaki shop offers almost everything you’d find at MK, only cheaper. Don’t miss the tender marinated beef, stir-fried beef with oyster sauce and fried-rice with crabmeat.
Rama 4 Rd., near Galaxy Restaurant & Night Club, 02-234-3548. Open daily 11am-10pm.
26. Ko Buu Rot Sing
These “dry” tomyam BBQ pork noodles topped with two half-boiled eggs are a hit with night crawlers.
Nawamin Soi 8, near The National Housing Authority (Karn Khe-ha), Klongchan. Open Mon-Sat about 9:30pm-2am.
27. Bharani @ TCDC
Its convenient location is part of the charm, but what we enjoy most is the homey cooking. Not to be missed are the crispy beef tacos (B180), roti with veal in red curry (B120) and saap “boat” noodles (B75).
6/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Phrom Phong, 02-664-8468. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. Also try its original location on Sukhumvit 23 (02-260-1626).
28. Tapas Café
The word tapas is popping up everywhere to describe any bite-sized morsel; come see what it really means at this authentic Spanish tapas bar.
1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-2941, 02-651-2947. Open daily 11:30am-11:30pm.
29. Raad Na See Sip Pee
Delicious raad na and pad see ew whose recipes have been passed down for over 40 years, hence the name See Sip Pee. B25-50.
Tanao Rd., 02-622-1910 ext. 0. Open daily 9am-9:30pm.
30. Khao Mun Kai Pratunam
There are many chicken rice shops in the area, but the one with the servers in pink has the juiciest chicken and the most peppery broth—the perfect hangover remedy.
Petchburi Rd., opposite Pratunam Center.
31. New Srifa 33
New Srifa 33’s moo pad namlieb (B80, stir-fried minced pork with salted Chinese black olives), bateng (B80, sweetened diced pork) and pad pak kra ched (B100) are so good, we believe they can elevate a one-night-stand khaotom meal into a date, and hence a relationship.
12/19 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-2649, www.newsrifa33.com. Open daily 5pm-4am.
Fresh spring rolls (B25) stuffed and topped with crabmeat, served immersed in a savory sauce—just the way it should be.
183 Ta Chang, Maharat Rd., opposite Silpakorn University, 02-222-8570. Open daily 9am-5pm.
33. Tong Heng Lee
This 40-year-old stall makes giant pots of tasty beef curry and beef stew daily. Don’t be late, as they usually run out by 2pm.
Ta Chang, Maharat Rd., 02-622-0191. Open daily 8am-4pm.
34. 55 Pochana
Sitting across from the mouth of Soi Thonglor, this khaotom shop is so famous that indie band Sepia wrote a song that borrowed their name. You can buy their album, or just go straight to the source and taste it yourself.
Sukhumvit Soi 55, BTS Thonglor, 02-391-2021. Open daily 7pm-4am.
Reasonably priced fried pigeon and Chao Samut (mixed seafood on a hot plate) are the bestsellers at this family-run Chinese restaurant.
2046/7-11 New Petchaburi Rd., 02-718-1730/-3. Open Mon-Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 11am-2am.
36. Moo Tord Jae Jong
Jae Jong is an idol worshipped by messengers and motorcycle-taxis as she blesses them with rice topped with moo tord (deep-fried pork), moo yaw (Northern sausage) and poo ja (deep-fried mixture of minced pork and crabmeat in crab shell) at bargain prices (B20-25, B200 for a kilo). There is also a khao kaeng buffet at 6:30-9am at B22.
Behind Tesco-Lotus Rama 4, 348 Rim Tang Rod Fai Sai Pak Nam Rd., 08-3013-2574. Open Mon-Sat 9am-3pm.
37. Khao Mun Kai Jae Yee
Jae Yee chicken rice (B30) stands out from the crowd thanks to a nice balance of succulent chicken and perfect, fluffy rice cooked in chicken broth.
Chakkrapatdipong Rd., opposite Wat Sa Ket, 02-223-2645. Open Tue-Sun 6am-3pm.
38. Ie Sae
Ie Sae has achieved cult status thanks to decades spent serving the same refreshing Thai-style coffee (B15) in the same classic Chinatown ambiance.
Padsai Rd., Yaowarat, 02-221-0549, 02-622-4080. Open daily 6am-9pm.
This seemingly ordinary shophouse whips up an exceptional Kobe beef stew (B100) accompanied by a bowl of rice. But be warned: you must call in advance to reserve your hi-so beef by 7:30am at the latest. Lost? Look for the throngs of BMWs and Mercedes Benzes queuing to pick up their order.
Trok Hiran alley on Boripan Rd., between Luand and Charoen Krung Rds., 08-1638-0897. Open Mon-Sat 9am-2pm.
At B370, a yakiniku and shabu shabu buffet this good is a steal!
B/F, Charn Issara Tower 2, New Petchaburi Rd., 02-308-2989. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm.
41. Pinklao Hua Pla Mor Fai
At this three-story restaurant, the appetizing (and affordable) hotpots brimming with fresh fish fillets, chunky tofu, cabbage and bateng (sweetened pork) make you quickly forget about the drab setting. Pork satay at the nearby stall is yummy, too (B4 each). Combine the two and you’re in heaven.
Near the foot of Pinklao Bridge, on the Thonburi side, 02-433-9332. Open daily 3pm-2am.
42. 13 Coins (a.k.a. 13 Rean)
The round-the-clock dining chain reknowned for its delicious Chicken Alaska offers huge helpings at cheap prices (around B100).
Try Silom branch at 304 Surawong Rd., 02-631-7314. Open daily 24/7.
43. Somtam Nua
Bordering on legendary, this somtam is head and shoulders above the competition. Call to reserve your table at least 30 minutes in advance.
392/14-15 Siam Square Soi 5, Rama 1 Rd., 02-251-4880. Open daily 11am-9pm.
44. Joke Samyan
It’s just a modest shophouse but its congee porridge’s reputation reaches beyond the capital (B25, B30 with an egg).
920 Phayathai Rd., opposite Chulalongkorn University, 08-1350-6671. Open daily 2:30-8am, 3-8pm.
45. Roti Mataba
Small-but-tasty mataba, roti and curry dishes await those willing to squeeze at tiny tables where they will literally rub elbows with other diners.
136 Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-2119, 02-629-3353 ext. 0. Open Tue-Sun 8am-10pm.
46. Roti Pa Auan
Drop by wearing pants loose at the waist as the paper-thin crisp roti sprinkled with sugar and condensed milk is extremely addictive. It looks and feels light but don’t let it fool you. Also known as Roti Poh Chang.
Tripetch Rd., Pahurat, opposite Poh Chang College, 02-221-2084. Open daily 10am-6pm.
47. Charoen Pochana
This hidden treasure doesn’t serve walk-ins and doesn’t even have a menu. You need to call ahead to make your reservation and place your order or else… Well worth the effort, though.
79/1 Soi Wat Bangsakae Nok, Therd Thai Rd., 02-466-3068. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-midnight.
Artfully presented Mediterranean specialties with a twist continue to make Cy’an one of the best fine dining restaurants around. The red snapper carpaccio (B380) is a perfect symbol of Cy’an’s light, refreshing and flavorful cuisine.
The Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily noon-2pm, 2:30-10:30pm.
Unlimited thinly-sliced marbled meat that practically melts in your mouth—how does that sound? Good? So good, in fact, that reservations are strongly recommended.
Taisin Square Building, between Sukhumvit Soi 67 and 69, BTS Phra Khanong, 02-714-0791, 02-381-2267. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm.
50. The Cup Restaurant & Tea Room
This magnet for hiso ladies and young executives whips up British classics like roast lamb drenched in rich gravy and some mean desserts like their apple pie a la mode.
3/F, Lake Rajada Office Complex, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-264-0247. MRT QSNCC. Open Mon-Sat 11am-6pm.
51. Tokyo Joe Pub & Restaurant
KFC, believe it or not, inspired TJP&R owner Joe to create JFC (Joe’s Fried Chicken), a chunkier, crispier, MSG-free deep-fried chicken.
Sukhumvit Soi 26, BTS Phrom Phong, 02-259-6267. Open daily 6pm-1am.
52. Krua Apsorn
With green curry, grilled chicken wings and crabmeat omelet as the recommendations, the menu seems familiar and dull. But once you take a bite, you realize that these timeless classics are here executed with rare talent; every one of them is a pleasant surprise. B70-100.
Samsen Rd., 02-241-8528, 02-668-8788. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm.
This cozy vegetarian café rolls out delicious baked goods and meatless food that can make even resolute carnivores ravenous. Don’t miss its tasty tofu creations.
976/17 Soi Rim Klong Sam Sen, Rama 9 Rd., 02-641-5366. Open Sun-Tue 10am-9pm.
Chocolate lovers can die happily after a single bite from one of Cherubin’s rich dark delights. The ultimate sins are brownies and French chocolate cake.
5/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-260-9800. Open Tue-Thu 10:30am-7pm; Fri-Sun 10:30am-8pm.
55. Iam Pochana
Meat lovers find themselves going again and again to this 60-year-old establishment for good beef hotpot and muu krata at great prices.
215/2-3 Maitri Cit Rd., near Wong Wien 22, 02-225-0582, 02-223-7221. Open daily 11am-4am.
56. Jae Kee
One of the city’s best somtam parlors offers saap Isaan fare along with finger-licking fried chicken. Delivery is available.
137/1-2 Soi Polo, 02-655-8489. Open daily 7am-9:30pm.
57. Royal India
This seven-table eatery serves up authentic Indian specialties to be paired with freshly baked garlic naan. Prices range from B40-B200.
392/1 Chakraphet Rd., 02-221-6565. Open daily 10am-10pm.
Tsu Chef Akihiro Izumi picks and slices some of the best sushi and sashimi in the region. Quality doesn’t come cheap, so bring your credit card or, even better, your boss.
JW Marriott Hotel, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. Open daily; lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner 6-10:30pm.
59. Le Normandie
If you wonder what bourgeois French families have for lunch on Sundays, order yourself Le Normandie’s eight-course tasting menu (B4,300 without wine, B7,300 with wine), which is actually a deal if you look at a la carte prices. Flawless service and stunning river views included.
The Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000 ext. 7670. Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sun 7-10:30pm.
60. Mee Krob Jeen Lee (Since King Rama 5)
Story goes that their great, great grandfather once cooked for HM King Rama 5 the same crispy mee krob (B100) recipe they serve today.
326-330 Tanam Talad Plu, Thonburi, 02-466-9170, 02-466-9037. Open daily 10am-10pm.
You can’t miss Pornchai, better known as Kanompang Banglumpoo. Before it, a perpetual queue of hungry diners, hypnotized by the scented trail of freshly baked stuffed bread (B30), shuffles zombie-like towards their fix of sausage, shredded pork, ham and raisin stuffing.
Tanao Rd., Banglumpoo, across Soi Bavornrangsri. Open daily 8am-6pm.
63. King Kalpapreuk
Here, traditional Thai cuisine plays second fiddle to their renowned chocolate cake (B50/piece, B480/pound). Skip lunch and order a pound.
1/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., BTS Phrom Phong, 02-664-8410. Open daily 10am-9pm.
64. Kluay Kaek Larn Luang
Passing Larn Luang and Chakkrapatdipong junctions, you’ll see many kluay kaek sellers zigzagging between cars with their bags of banana fritters. Competition is so fierce that the police now fines buyers and vendors alike for causing massive traffic jams. So please, don’t buy from them. (Hey, listen, the fritters from the guy with the red apron are awesome. We never told you. Don’t get caught.)
Larn Luang Rd. Available daily.
65. Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel
White or black sticky rice to be paired with various homemade toppings, from fried liver, shredded beef and sausages to sun-dried pork (B10 each).
Samsen Soi 13, 02-241-2377. Open daily 7am-4pm.
66. Viroon Ice Cream
Don’t let the name mislead you, Viroon Ice Cream, in fact, serves up yummy and pricey seafood porridges. Try bowls of seabass (B150) and oysters (B200).
506/2-3 Soi Pranakares, near Saphan Lueng, 02-233-6735. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
This restaurant with a display case full of animal parts offers Middle Eastern fare served by waitresses in green hijabs. Anything made of lamb here is excellent, including the testicles (so we were told).
6/8 Nana Soi 3/1, BTS Nana, 02-254-7392-3, 02-251-3666. Open daily 10am-3am.
68. Soi Nana Shawarma
Shawarma stalls have mushroomed all over the Soi 3-Soi 3/1 area. The best is one of the oldest, next to the Grace Hotel—and still a steal at B50. Order the beef, and ask them to sear the sliced meat on the grill a bit longer than normal. Open in the evening only.
69. Chote Chitr
Last time we made a visit to this five-table eatery, the dogs, all three of them, sprinted to sit on our lap before the auntie/server/cook helped drive them away. Why do we put up with it? Chote Chitr has some of the best Thai food in town (prices around B30-150). The mee krob and yum thua phuu (wing bean salad) are miraculous.
146 Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-4082. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-9pm.
70. Khao Mok Kai Tanon Tok
This is THE place for khao mok: chicken, goat or beef on biryani rice (B35) along with brimming bowls of chicken and oxtail soup.
Tanam Tanon Tok, Charoen Krung Rd., opposite Charoen Krung Pracharak Hospital, 02-291-1858. Open daily 11am-9pm.
At this long-standing restaurant, homestyle ped yang (roast duck) and ped palo (braised duck with Chinese herbs) make up for the otherwise monotonous setting by taking your mouth on an unforgettable journey. B35 for khao na ped, B280 for a whole duck.
460 Visootkasat Rd., near Wat Tri Tossathep, 02-282-0714. Open daily 9am-9:30pm.
72. Pow Tiem Heng
Its original Pataanakarn outlet is just too far so we’ll settle for the mall branch instead. But you can still bank on its beef noodles and stewed beef testicles.
5/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, 08-6533-3433. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 11am-9pm.
73. Kuay Tiew Kai Nai Wan
These noodles with juicy braised chicken and fragrant soup are popular among Ekkamai night owls who crave a warm late night supper to ease off the incoming hangover.
In front of Ekkamai Soi 19. Open Tue-Sun 8pm-3am.
74. Kuay Tiew Rot Daeng
This red pick-up truck turned noodle stall comes and leaves when it pleases. If it’s around when you are in the area, you absolutely must order its “dry” noodles with BBQ pork. Ask for a boiled egg, too (B15).
In front of Ekkamai Soi 19, near Kuay Tiew Kai Nai Wan. Usually, it shows up around 9pm-2am.
75. Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo
Kanom jeen with various rich curries including naamya, naamya pah, namprik and green curry (B15). An egg is B5 more, but accompanying veggies are on the house. Veggie binge!
In a tiny alley near Tang Hua Seng department store, Chakraphong Rd. Open daily 10am-7pm.
76. Song Kee
Tender pork and liver satay (B5 each) come escorted by a rich coconut sauce at this 65-year-old shop. A lasting crowd-pleaser.
84-88 Soi Sukorn, Trimitr Rd., 02-639-6584 ext. 0, 02-236-1171. Open Mon 10am-2pm, Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.
77. Sanyod Pochana
Its Cantonese dishes hit the spot, but the real star is the moist and succulent roast duck (B120-300), tender BBQ red pork (B100-180) and Hong Kong-style raad na (B35, B150).
202/1 North Sathorn Rd., near Taksin Bridge, 02-236-3905, 02-234-7968. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.
78. Jek Pui (Je Chia)
You don’t get a table at this khao kaeng stall, but you do get to play musical chairs with some 20 plastic red stools. The prize? Rice topped with smooth and milky Chinese-style beef curry (lighter than its Japanese or Indian counterparts B25).
Mangkorn Rd., in the soi next to Leng Nei Yee Temple, 08-1854-7110. Open daily 4-9pm.
79. Patongko Savoey
If your morning coffee routine involves Starbucks and BK, fine, but on some mornings, you still need to try the deep-fried dough from this long-standing stall. The B20 set includes sangkhaya (Thai custard).
540 Tanao Rd., opposite Bangkok Bank, 02-222-2635. Open daily 6-10pm, 5-9:30pm.
80. Lee Café
The trendier son of Lee Kitchen serves up simpler (and more affordable) Chinese single-dishes. You can’t go wrong with Mr. Lee’s gui chai tord (fried Chinese chive dumplings) and spicy hot yentafo served in a clay pot.
Try the Erawan Bangkok (B/F, 02-250-7758) or CentralWorld (3/F, 02-635-1111) branches. Open daily 11am-9pm.
Late into the night, Greenhouse is crowded with party animals who need to soak up some of their excesses with silky smooth congee (B100-150) and patongko (B65/plate).
The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. Open daily 24/7.
82. Waraporn Salapao
Some may find B16 an outrageous price for a salapao, but thanks to their fluffy dough and generous stuffing, we can’t say no to Waraporn’s steamed buns. The traditional minced pork and cream ones remain our favorites.
Nang Leong, Nakornsawan Soi 16, 02-280-2964. Open daily 6am-6pm.
If you think its braised beef noodles are good, try the goat! Now that’s something different.
Near Ekkamai Soi 18, 02-391-7264. Open daily 10am-9pm.
84. Triple O’s
This will tear through your McDonald’s budget (prices start at B150 for the Original), but burger aficionados swoon over the Canadian chain’s perfectly grilled meat sandwiched in fluffy freshly toasted buns.
Central Food Hall, 7/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1640. Open daily 10am-10pm.
85. Roadhouse BBQ
This giant tavern dishes out Bangkok’s absolute best buffalo wings (cooked to perfection and in a tangy finger-licking good sauce)—not to mention delicious micro-brews on tap.
942/1-4, Rama 4 Rd., 02-236-8010. Open daily 10am-midnight.
86. Le Beaulieu
Ignore the ads for Michelin-star chefs touring hotel restaurants. (You don’t get a kitchen up to speed overnight.) If one kitchen here had a shot at the French guide’s coveted stars, it would be Chef Herve Frerard’s. Our favorites: the classic sole meuniere and his exquisite artichoke soup.
Sofitel Residence, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-204-2004. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.
Anna Café’s Charlie has recently opened his eponymous eatery with the same Anna’s menu, which features, of course, a luscious banoffi.
Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., near German Tawandaeng, Rama 3, 02-678-0092. Open daily 11am-10pm.
Its seasonal santol sorbet (B49) rocks! Period.
Try its J Avenue (Thonglor Soi 15, 02-712-6054) and The Emporium (5/F, 02-259-8717) outlets.
To create the city’s best hotpot, Shan combines Japanese subtlety and Mongolian force—all of it with quality organic ingredients. The result is tasty, spicy and full of original flavors.
3/F, United Tower, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-712-6612. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm.
90. Jok Kitchen
Don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway where this one-table, menu-less establishment lurks. The real challenge is that it may take months after you make your reservation before you actually get to dine here. But Jok will astonish you with his Chinese-Thai cooking prepared with fresh seafood, in particular his stunning crabs.
23 Soi Isara Nuphap, Phlab Phla Chai Rd., 02-221-4075, 08-1919-9468. Open daily 11am-7:30pm.
Who’s got the best pizza in town? Many people we asked voted Basilico’s classic wood-fired pies.
8 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-2323. Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11:30pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm.
92. Mei Jiang
Pricey but succulent dim sum, especially ha gao, that makes you want to order more and more and more...
The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-1888. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.
The only food we trust the British with is what they serve with tea. Here, linger over homemade scones and apple crumble, complemented by a tranquil British garden atmosphere.
Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-5857 ext 111, www.agalico.co.th. Open Fri-Sun 10am-6pm.
Any pork and potatoes dish is a winning combination in our book. But when it’s Rastube’s fried pork knuckles served with roast potatoes (B280), we go positively crazy.
Goethe Institute, 18/1 Soi Ngam Duphli (Soi Goethe), South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-7274. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm.
The Bully Burger is possibly the best burger in town (a title farang seem to have the capacity to debate over endlessly). And did we mention they serve the coldest beer in town (according to our own investigation)?
Sukhumvit Soi 4, BTS Nana, 02-656-4609. Open daily 11am-1am.
96. Koong Ob Woonsen (No official name)
The koong ob woonsen (shrimps and glass noodles baked in a clay pot) at this streetside stall is so good, queues here can last for hours! A bowl costs B200, and is worth every satang.
Charoenrat Soi 1, 081-823-9706. Open daily 5-11pm.
97. Mousses & Meringues
The décor of this little house is cute and inviting (at least for ladies who lunch) and the Macadamia Soft Cake is irresistible (even if you’re a hardboiled macho man).
245 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee), 02-261-4830. Open daily 11am-11pm.
98. On Lok Yun
On Lok Yun is the Starbucks of your grandparents’ generation, minus the confusion when it’s time to order. Here, the options are pretty limited: Thai-style coffee to go with fluffy sandwiches (B35), sausages (B50) and poached egg (B10)—Thailand’s breakfast of champions.
72 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-223-9621. Open daily 5:30am-5pm.
99. Sud Jai Kai Yang
There’s no dearth of somtam in town but somtam hoy dong (marinated clams) and yum poo dong (spicy marinated crabs salad) is up there in the pantheon of the city’s best papaya salads. Prices start at B40.
Aor Tor Kor Market, Kampaengphet Rd., MRT Kampaengphet, 02-618-4634. Open daily 8am-7pm.
100. Lek Muu Saam Yang
Despite its hidden location, this 50-year-old stall is always bustling with neighboring students who drop by for Lek’s muu saam yang soup. The moniker means three types of pork: kao lao of muu chin (pork slices), muu sab (minced pork balls) and muu krob (crispy deep-fried pork) in hot peppery broth (B25, B50). For an extra cool factor, act like a regular and order in code, “Everything, no Vet, super combo, tsunami.”
Pahurat Market, 08-9663-7063. Open Thu-Tue 7am-5pm.
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Central Embassy’s vast and beautiful open space blends art books, award-winning restaurants and innovative social spaces.
The latest on the BMA versus TAT power struggle over our soup bowls.
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And we couldn't agree more.