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Sukhumvit's old Mexican favorite shakes up its menu

The new chef at Charley Brown's Mexicana takes a more refined route. 

By Rowan Usher | Sep 26, 2017

  • Sukhumvit's old Mexican favorite shakes up its menu
    Chef Primo Rivera and Charley Brown’s Mexicana

First opened in 1992, Charley Brown’s Mexicana is keeping up with the times. Following its move from Sukhumvit’s rowdy Soi 11 to a quieter sub-soi in Asoke, the restaurant is rebranding itself, under the skilled hand of new chef Primo Rivera.

The Mexico City-born chef joins Bangkok’s bustling foodie scene after working in restaurants across Mexico, including Cabo's five-star Las Ventanas Al Paraíso A Rosewood Resort. His new menu, fittingly named Mi Tierra Mi Corazon (My Land, My Heart), is an open love letter to his country’s vibrant cuisine.

The Sopa de Tortilla (tortilla soup, B240) with pulled chicken, avocado and imported guajillo chili strands, is silky and smoky, while the Ceviche Tropical (B225) marinates the catch of the day in coconut milk and a very generous squeeze of lime, with sweet chunks of mango running through it to offset the acidity.

For main course, treat yourself to the Filete Ranchero (B900); a juicy slab of tenderloin topped with grilled cheese and a spicy ranchero sauce, this is not one for the faint-hearted. Also worth a try is the Berenjena Maria, a wickedly rich and cheesy baked eggplant dish in a creamy red bell pepper sauce (B390)—good luck coaxing his grandmother’s secret recipe out of the chef, though.

With the menu constantly evolving, depending on produce and the dishes’ popularity, Rivera has plenty of tricks up his sleeve. Keep an eye out for his upcoming specials: an octopus salad, typical of northeast Mexico, tossed in a fresh chipotle salsa, served on crisp tostadas and topped with pickled jalapenos; or the Mexican burger with a succulent patty packed with jalapenos and chorizo.  

Die-hard Charley Brown’s fans need not panic—the Tex-Mex staples that have kept customers happy for the last 25 years are still served up

G/F, iCheck Inn Hotel, 19/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-044-2553. Open Mon 5pm-midnight; Tue-Sun noon-midnight. BTS Asoke

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