Hugo’s Huge Flavors
Hugo Bar & Eatery is an Ekkamai hot spot serving casual bistro classics in a charming retro industrial dining room.
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8 years ago
Hugo takes its name from Martin Scorsese’s award-winning 2011 adventure Hugo. Set in the 1930s, the movie tells the story of a Parisian boy responsible for maintaining the clock in Gare Montparnasse railway station, and a convincing likeness of that very same oversized, beaux-arts clock face takes pride of place in Hugo’s dining room. Elsewhere, the space calls upon industrial iron latticework and rich leathers to create an environment that’s both moody and relaxing.
Singaporean head chef Raymond Lian (who previously worked for Dean & Deluca, Singapore Airlines’s private lounge and Swissotel) heads the kitchen, rolling out comforting favorites. The menu features familiar names from various cuisines, ranging from appetizers like Spanish gambas al ajillo (sauteed shrimps in garlic oil, B225), Mediterranean calamari fritti (fried squid, B215), French pate de foie de poulet (chicken liver pate, B195) and Italian bruschetta (baguette slices with tomato in olive oil, B115) to mains like British bangers and mash (B475) and the Bangkok favorite krapao nuea (stir-fried basil with beef, B245).
Though focusing on comfort food, Chef Raymond doesn’t overlook the details to make his dishes stand out. For the simple, beautifully tender duck confit (B365), he uses a balsamic-based sauce to cut through the fattiness of the meat, while the signature Hugo wagyu burger (B345) features a patty made from hand-minced wagyu beef to give it that coarse, meaty texture, encased in a house-made brioche bun. Even French toast (B285) is given his own take, with the brioche dipped in crushed corn flakes and fried in clarified butter before being served with salted caramel and vanilla ice cream. The result? Crispy and aromatic toast, balanced by the slightly salty caramel, sweet ice cream and some berries for sharpness.
Drinks are taken equally seriously, from the water (exclusively Evian for still and Badoit for sparkling) through to the cocktails created by Suchada “Fahbeer” Sopajaree, one of the finalists from 2014 Diageo World Class bartender competition. Many of her signature drinks are inspired by little anecdotes from Hugo the movie, from Papa George (gin, pineapple juice, elderflower liqueur, red berry tea, tonic) to Vue Vue Hugo (vodka, orange blossom, rose water, served with grape jelly Champagne, both B350). Elsewhere on the menu, she exhibits creativity and flair in artistically-inspired creations like the Vincent Van Gogh-referencing Date in Starry Night (Bianco vermouth, gin, lime juice, mint jelly served in a one-ear cup with paint brush and absinthe, B280) and Andy Warhol-influenced Pop Up Man’s (housemade vanilla ice cream, mint syrup, lemon juice, B150). Both drinks also incorporate the fine-bubbled Badoit sparkling water over fizzier offerings.
Thanks to its chilled vibe and a semi-outdoor space, Hugo is just the place for gatherings of friends and family who don’t want to compromise on food and drink.
39 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-713-1292.Open daily 11am-1am
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